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33 Yes they are a good set of stoppers! I'm sure they must have common parts if you really wanted to fit some.

Honestly, I don't remember what I used to clean them. WD40 would have been involved somewhere, and kerosene that you can see in the picture. But as you can see I replaced the float bowl seals amongst other things as well, so handling parts as you dismantle, and wiping parts with a clean cloth...

https://en.impex-jp.com/catalogs/moto/honda-other/cb750.html

I don't have the total answer for you, but I have been in your situation and you deserve a reply. First of all I am not a mechanic, I am a retired fitter and turner who just likes to have a go. I will enclose a link to the workshop manual...

That sounds like the needle roller. Spray it with oil, then let it soak in. Maybe invest in a blind bearing slide puller, or a nylon or wooden drift punch.

That is nice. The auxiliary lights in the fairing is a nice touch.

Apart from the two rectangular boxes at 2 o’clock and 7 o’clock, and the wiring from them, it looks like mine. As brettp posted they can be a pretty full headlight bucket.

Post a picture, that might help. But just identifying each wire using a wiring diagram would help, that way you would at least identify any wires that were not used, doubled up, or could be integrated into one e.g. a common earth wire.

Well that would put a dampener on a good ride real quick! The first two photos give a better indication of how clear of the exhaust the bags are. The last photo it’s a trick of the angle. Thanks for the heads up though, always careful.👍

It’s okay, I can help as far as my knowledge goes 😄. Lighting switch > Brown to brown. Blue/white (HL2) connects to left control The third wire unsure, wiring diagram doesn’t show that colour, possible Black/red ( HL1) at connexion. Black/brown I don’t see on your photographs! On motorcycle...

Black/white is engine stop - this is the colour at 9 broches connexion. Regarding the warning switch; I think the blue and orange are for the left and right signal- so I think they are 1 contact. You may have to insulate and conceal unused wire in headlight shell. Maybe use at another time!

Left control > Blanco = Lo. Bleu = Hi. Bleu/Blanc = même a 9 broches connexion. Green at phare = fil de terre.

Tres complex! Droit control > Starter=Yellow/Red (+ pos) . Green (- neg) changes to black at 9 broches connexion. Left control > Orange = left signal / Bleu clair = right signal./ Gris ( au milieu ) signal relais.- même a 9 broches connexion. Green wire at signal = fil de terre. ...

W is the L/R clignotant relais (gris couleur). Neutral switch wire is light green/red to diode and ignition control module. HL1? isoler pour l'instant?

Bon chance.

Plus d'information.

More information?

Mon français est très limité. Mais j'essaie! :) Mon écriture n'est pas si bonne.

I don't know if this helps at all...

Des photographies de vos commutateurs pourraient être très utiles.

****Translation of the 5.02 am message if someone else has information**** And HO1 is common yes as you say but where do I connect it in the left commodo??? To say my commodos are not the original ones....let me explain on the left one I have the headlight/low code button, the flashing cursor...

One thing at a time, une chose à la fois HL1 This integrates the the fuse for startup and ignition. No button really, but integrated into a switch position. If switch is intact and all your wires connectors are correct, they all meet inside the headlight shell. J'espère que ceci vous aide. :)

Coils to the kill switch on right side. M to the indicator relay. HO1 is common to warning lights, indicator relay, fuse and rear brake switch.

I remember it being a tight squeeze, I removed all things securing the airbox and the battery tray, just so the airbox could go backwards as far as possible. On all occasions I have pulled the carbs out on the right hand side, so the clutch cable was disconnected and out of the way. There is...

I bought the rubber seals for the carbs from IMPEX. The o-rings for pipes and T-joint were in the kits. As I said the carbs were easy to clean and it was just the float bowl gaskets, o-rings, and float valves that needed replacing. The vacuum line is readily available at at any rubber store (...

I have a 96 CB750 F2V (Australia) and the first thing that needed attention was the leaky dirty carbs, and the rubbish in the tank and fuel tap. The carbs weren't too bad but check the seals on the pipes and T-joint between the carb bodies. I bought spares from IMPEX Japan. I also sourced bits...

All the above is good information. Check that the front axle has slid through solidly to its stops in the forks. Clean the spacers, speedo drive, where the axle fits through the forks, and the axle, then apply a small amount of grease to the axle to help it slide home right to the stops. I saw...

LED indicators don't need all the power of normal blinkers, so maybe the excess power is playing tricks with the flasher relay. Have you seen the blinkers working properly? If not, then maybe it is an unfinished job and you need a resistor for each blinker and check the flasher relay. DOUBLE...