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I want to buy a good tool for adjusting the valves on my DOHC CB750k. Is the OEM Honda two piece tool (07964-422000A) better to buy or the MotionPro "c-shaped" one?

Is it possible to rebuild the rear shocks on the '79 CB750K? I think I read somewhere that they are gas filled too? Can anyone please explain or direct me to any resources on how the ones on the 750 work? Thanks.

Thank you for thus! I am in!

Thank you @kirky . I am relieved to know that. I will add that I got in touch with a local Honda expert and he said the same so I am guessing we're good! But OMG, 40 years of working on brit iron is very cool!! (I have been on Earth for slightly more than half that time :)). Brit bikes are the...

I have been rebuilding a 1979 CB750 engine for some time now (on and off). Since it had been so long since I took my engine apart, I decide to do a mock assembly of my crankcase before I close the crankcase up for good! Everything seems to be fitting well and turning/working as intended (and...

That's great!

Alright. Thanks dirtdigger. Btw, would you happen to know what's up with amc49? He has helped me a lot on this build but seems to be quiet these days. Hope all is well with amc49

Alright. Thanks for the response. Will get the cyl checked and get new rings. Also, I came across this blog on breaking in piston rings. Here's the link: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm How valid do you think this method is. Do you have any experience with doing it as he suggests?

Hello to all! I have been doing some reading on honing cylinders and why it is necessary for the piston rings. I took the cylinders off (about 10 months to a year ago), and they have been oiled and stored all this while. As for the rings, I had taken them off the pistons to check end gaps etc...

So I finally got down to measuring the clearances on the OG bearings for the mains. The plastigauge indicates the clearance to be very much identical to the new ones. So it leads me to believe that the bolts are not tight enough although I did set them to 18 ft lbs or there is some other...

Okay... Measured the con rod clearance too. All 4 are are slightly above 0.038mm, which is exactly what I was expecting. Will do the mains one last time and give you an update.

I fully agree with you on that. I will admit it is my first time doing this level of engine work. That said, I have been very careful and slow about doing things right. I tried plastigauge twice on the mains with 18 lb.ft torque at the bolts and the results were the same. Have not done the...

Hello all. Back after a long time and I have some updated to share. I plastigauged my main bearings yesterday. My OG bearings were Black for journal 1 and rest all Brown. As per the general sentiment, I went for a looser fit, opting for all green bearings but I was surprised to find how high the...

Partspitstop an Ron Ayers. Not so much that I have a choice when selecting them but just wanted to understand what I am getting. For the conrod bearings there is a choice to choose between the three brands but for the mains I think they have just one of them. Don't remember which one. But...

Hi amc49, I am finally done with finalizing my bearing colors and am about to order parts. Just wanted to ask you which bearings are best: Nippon Dia, Taiho or Daido? These are all OEM brands right? Or are they different than the original Honda bearings?

In an attempt to see what kind of clearances I was to expect if I used the chart in the manual and my measurements I made myself a spreadsheet. For the main journals, my measurement and the ID codes suggest using Brown bearings while for the crankpins, its Green and Black respectively. If I...

I hope that the reason cause I remeasured the entire crank today and got the same measurements! One more thing though, the journals and pins passed for out of round inspection well but I did notice a max taper value of 0.004mm on the journal that was marked C that turned out to be a B (when...

Measured my crankshaft today. Based on the markings, was expecting the Main Journals to be : C,B,B,B,B left to right of the engine and the Crank Pins to be: 3,2,2,2. All measurements came out to fall within the tolerance specified in the manual except the C and 3 code turned out to be a B and 2...

Hey amc49, I was looking online for parts but it seems they are sort of drying up... And the ones that are available are expensive! Do you have any preferred parts stores/websites that are reputed to carry good parts? CMSNL seems to have everything btw but is expensive again :D

Expensive? Oh hell yes! Speaking of the mileage, my odometer reads 11k miles so I guess I am okay. Is the 30K a service limit? Meaning the engine will have to come apart after another 19k miles if I don't replace now? In that case I would just do it now....

Okay I understand now. I have been doing some reading and what you suggest seems the most perfect way to do this! Thak you. Will keep you updated. On a different note, what do you have to say about reusing the primary and camshaft chains on these? Considering that the engine sat for approx 20...

Okay.... but I find one thing difficult to understand. So when honda assembled the engines they stamped the diameter of the holes in the cases and the conrods as alphabet and number codes. Now, as per my understanding, the only wearing surfaces there are the bearing inserts and the crank pins...

Alright. Will figure it out. I was in the midst of choosing bearings for conrods and the crank. Just wanted to check if I understand things right: as per the procedure in the manual, all we need to do is measure the crank pins and main journals right? Then, using honda codes for the ID of the...

Man that is some great advice! I really really am grateful to have access to someone like you that takes time to help novices like myself. Thank you amc49! One question though, I even sheared off the tabs that hold the lock nut/washer that you suggest holding on to while tightening the advancer...

Thanks! I am gonna file the bump back and do what you said. But yeah, i did break the pin off. What do you mean by "if you are careful enough"? Do you think it would be okay to tig weld and shape a pin behind the advancer to reuse it? Also, I am worried that the depth of the damage might cause...

amc49 needed your opinion on some damage on my crankshaft. I feel really stupid saying it out loud but, back when I was trying to take my alternator rotor bolt off, in order to try to keep the engine from spinning I had my friend hold the advancer spacer hex while I tried to take off the rotor...

Hello amc49 and others here. So after a lot of struggle, I did manage to take the rotor out (got the hardened steel puller and it worked!). You were right! However, the two piece puller I had mentioned earlier did a litter damage to my crank threads (I think it damaged one thread). The question...

Okay. I have been trying and trying and trying but no success. The more time I spend on it the more badly stuck it feels. Another problem i face is that, since the engine is on my bench and out of the bike, tightening the puller/axle becomes a hassle (any advice on that? I have used the drive...

I got the tool I mentioned machined and tried using it. It seems to be doing whats intended but the rotor refuses to come off. As you mentioned, I am led into thinking that this will probably need more force than the tool or axle can deliver. In that case, do you think a 3-jaw or 2-jaw puller...

That's some great advice! I had indeed already tightened all the lower crank case bolts before starting on the rotor. Talking about the rust, the external body of the rotor is not rusted at all so i am not sure if the joint is jammed by rust (it could be, but then it must be internal). you mean...