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Simple Green, can't remember the ratio I used to clean my carbs. Do a little research if you don't find any info start with mild ratio. Main thing besides Simple Green is to use hot water in ultrasonic cleaner.

If you are able to work on that old car in your garage and you have desire / will to work on that bike, carburetor overhaul will be easy task. Just buy good overhaul kit and take your time. There is very good manual for carb overhaul available here on the forum. If you can't find it let me know...

I like your idea about raw aluminum fins, as you see I am biased. In his case I don't think it would look good since all of his engine parts are black, no contrast....

Sand blast with fine media, MAKE SURE that all the openings to the internals of the engine are 100% sealed.

First of all your carbs are terribly filthy, you need to make them spotless. As far as floats, make sure needle rubber tips are not damaged and nice and soft. Also use a Q tip and polish float needle seats with some fine polish. Make sure your floats are not cracked and getting filled with fluid...

What are the RPM's of the engine while you testing charging?

On my 82CB750F, I replaced all of blinker bulbs with LED bulbs, also installed LED flasher. No need for diode, everything is working like a charm!

I like bronze wheel setup the most, white wheel setup the least...

Float needles will not affect idle. My suggestion was based on people removing carburators and disassembling them, why not to do this one extra step for smoother operation. Also you said it feels like something is sticking / hanging up...now carb slides can cause that... I am not sure how deep...

As I said many times before to other members who had issues with carbs... After thorough cleaning which you did, I suggested everyone to polish float needle seats and to polish carburtor slide pistons and bores. ALL POLISHING must be done by hand and with none grit polish paste. Trust me it...

I must say that my experience is different. My bike is super sport and sound of exhaust is in my opinion very fitting to this model. Also I have not experience any discoloration on the headers. In short, I love this exhaust!

Most definitely replace brake lines!!! Why would you gamble with your safety just to save $200!? Good work, just keep on and stay committed.

I put Delkevic 4 to 1 on my 82 and have not changed anything. Bike is running perfect.

LOL, only 8 years later...

! Amsoil is VERY good oil

I definitely can understand and relate to your statement about oil in the summer time getting thin. You are doing yourself a big favor by changing it often. Since you can get parts from Japan, look into buying oil cooler kit for Japanese market 750F or 900F. CB 1100F oil cooler is double the...

If you are replacing sprockets, replace chain. Using old chain with new sprockets or vices versa will cause premature wear on new item.

Be careful with that carb cleaner while engine is running, that shit is extremely FLAMABLE!

You can get couple long bolts (4-5 inch) with correct thread pitch, cut their heads off. Start them into the engine case, now you can use those bolts as a guide for your stator cover. It is obvious it's rubbing, you just need to find where.

What kind of engine oil are you using? Reason for my question is, if you changed oil recently and "maybe "used oil not suited for the motorcycles, that can cause your clutch to slip!

If there is good tank and plastics (tail, side covers, fender) for the F bike, let me know...

Ok Ben, if you are legit than you should know better how to post parts for sale. As a person who became member two days ago, I would be as transparent as possible so potential buyers would not be alerted with post like yours...

Good possibility seller is a scammer, be careful. For your safety ask for the picture with sellers forum name written on the piece of paper sitting next to the part in question!

Dude I sent you DM on Monday to let me know what will be shipping to my zip!?

LOL, not suspicious at all!!!

Are you sure forks are 35mm? Forks on '82 CB750F Super Sport from factory are 37mm!

If your .127mm feeler gauge CAN'T fit that means your gap is too tight and you need to insert THINNER shim to achieve MORE gap. How much exactly is matter of available shims you have and install / measure procedure. If you shim is let's say 300, put in 295 and measure, if gap is better but not...

I'm not sure which part are you confused about... when your valve is at full closed, you stick your filler gauge between shim and cam. If .005 inch filler gauge can go in between with a little drag you are good to go. Check next valve.

I am talking about DOHC engine, we are in DOHC section of CB750 forum aren't we!?

That stuff is too complicated! Here is how I do it: Adjusting intake valve gap, turn your cam until one of the lobes point towards AIRBOX and LEVELED with the head. At that lobe your valves are going to be at full closed position, now CHECK valve gap. If gap is .005 INCH you are good if not...