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Spark plugs. If they are too cold of a plug (ie, the incorrect ones) they may not be hot enough to burn the fuel in the combustion chamber. Just a thought that it may not be a fuel delivery issue.

Do you have the right plugs? Also, I can't remember what is stock.

Depends on how well the float was made to OEM spec. After you put the floats in, fill the carbs with fuel while they on a bench. See if the floats stop the fuel when the bowls are full. Then take a clear hose that can be tightly secured to the drain line at the bottom of the carb, and bend out...

Yeah, that would richen the mixture

Try adjusting your clutch cable to increase the throw.

I've only ever used carb cleaner for that test, not brake cleaner. Are you using stock carb jets with stock airbox?

You get the lurch and the bike dies. Then you can restart the bike while in first?

Is that combustible?

How did you search for an air leak?

That's the million dollar question. But with oem settings or is not rich, so you have a limited air supply going to the carbs. The reason, we are trying to find our.

Hey, Igor. First, that screw is a fuel mixture screw not an air screw. So as you open that screw more (too much) is going into the chamber. It sounds like you need more air. So you need to check the air filter, making sure it is snug against the airbox and check the boots between the carb...

Oil coolers have their own problems/maintenance. I'm unsure if the oil pump is strong enough to push the oil through the cooler; surely there are smarter people than me who know the answer. Second, you're introducing more points of failure like o-rings. Unless you're racing, I think the...

Not exactly sure. Mine came out easily. I had to make sure it kept the felt washer for each one, but i didn't have any issues. I also used a JIS screwdriver.

Neither. Both. You're missing a nut on the bottom. Should be one above and one below.

The plays need to be removed to separate carbs 1 from 2, and 3 from 4. The plates are mounted to a shared shaft.

I had the same question but came to the conclusion (right or wrong) the best way to avoid it from happening is to paint it. But I choose to keep polishing. On the plus side, once you polish it the maintenance is far easier. I use mag polish for aluminum and it works well with a drill attachment

I would check seat bolts and the bolt on top of the airbox

Do you have an external fuel filter under the tank rattling against something? Maybe one of the throttle cable nuts loosened and is rattling. I'm just spit balling

Maybe it's your piercing?

Rattles can be found in the headlight bucket very often. Plastic connectors vibrate against the bucket.

I honestly can't remember what that is. I need a expert or two to weigh in. Or you can search the forum for "carb black nipple t". See what comes up.

Your petcock is not vacuum operated. You can gravity fed straight to the fuel rail.

If that piece runs between 2 and 3 with no other ends open, leave as is.

Yes, but you need to cap the nipple on carb 2 (i think) that goes to that vacuum operated thing. If your petcock is vacuum operated, that needs to be replaced, too. OR, you can connect the nipple on carb 2 to the vacuum line on the petcock. What petcock do you have? Pics, please.

Do you have to keep it? I removed mine and went straight gravity feed.

Are you sure it isn't just an exhaust gaskets that quit?

I've read of a few people not getting their jetting right. But I'm not sure how much of that is Murray's jetting from the factory or the end user. To be clear, i have heard far more good stories, which makes sense because Murray knows his sh*t.

$500 bucks?! Is that US dollars? What could possibly cost that much? Your fuel leak is most likely from 1 of 2 things: a float Thai didn't seat right (which can sometimes be fixed but tapping on the carb bowl with something firm but not a hammer), or the fuel rail between carbs 1 and 2 (which...

Yeah, the engine has the look of pre-79.

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