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Yep it's got pods.

There's no air box.

If you're picking it out with a magnet it's not aluminum and might be coming from somewhere else. You can find finer increments of shims if needed but I didn't find it necessary. I got as many of mine as close as possible playing shim musical chairs, and then ordered exactly what I needed to...

Thanks for the tip I've got new clamps on the way, hadn't seen that site before. Seems like it wouldn't be a bad idea to also support the carbs somehow so all the weight isn't on the rubber. Anyone do this?

Yah I'm familiar with that program haha. Shockingly the ignition draws the least amount of power, the headlight is the hog. While working on this I've discovered I get about 30 miles on the battery with the light on before it dies lol. I'm just curious if it's safe for the engine.

So I rechecked all wiring, installed the proper fuses, and no charging at all. Took the cover off and the brand new rotor is completely burnt. Like melted plastic everywhere burnt. I'm working with a tech at Rick's to figure out wtf. Obviously I know it won't charge, but can I ride this...

So I discovered a pretty interesting wiring snafu that may or may not have been responsible for a lot of these issues I've been having. Previous owner had the key/ignition wire powering the M-Unit, when that wire is supposed to go to the lock input and the M-Unit is connected directly to 12v...

Everything except the stator is Rick's. After the bike shut down the voltage was still really high, like 15v + and then it started dropping. After starting it quickly did the same thing, like the battery was full and it wouldn't stop charging it. Was able to unplug the white and black from...

I'm still having trouble with the charging system on my 79 CB750. Right now it's got a brand new rotor, brand new stator, and brand new regulator/rectifier. It has a pretty new Shorai lithium battery that is taking a charge and seems to be fine. I'm finally able to get voltage out of it, but...

Thanks guys, will get proper clips next time around. These are generic boots from 4into1. They came in numbered bags but sure look the same to me lol. I swapped 1&2, and 3&4. It seems like tightening them compressed the rubber and made them longer, started over and went bit by bit tightening...

Better view of 1&2.

I've got brand new carb boots and can't get #2 and #3 to seat properly. The old ones were a pain too, but this is ridiculous. I checked that all the carbs are even, and the boots look even when the carbs aren't on, but I can't get them to seat when #1 and #4 are all the way in. I've currently...

I got the new rotor on it, and it still wasn't charging. Took it apart again, seems the spinning wire hanging off knocked some stator wires around. There were 3 wires under a braided protector that were clearly soldered together that came apart. I cleaned those, put a crimp on them, and...

Close-up

Confirmed, here's the burnt one next to a new one. The glue broke loose from the connection area and the wire disconnected. There's also scoring around the edge so that wire was probably dragging somewhere also.

Yah I was thinking about that last night. Only question is, what to use? I'm guessing some kind of epoxy. It's got to handle the rpms, and the heat. My 2nd one had some brittle chunks of glue that broke off and were loose in there, I can't imagine that helps the situation at all.

Just looked online, the stator is also wound. On the rotor if they glued it right you wouldn't see the windings. Glad I went to look, turns out I still have a spare because I bought one, and then the original company sent me a warranty replacement.

No, the rotor is wound heavily.

My understanding is that if every single winding isn't completely covered in glue they tend to fly apart at high rpm. I can only assume that the crankshaft suggestion would indicate higher than normal vibrations may speed this process up. When I got the bike the rotor was cooked. I replaced...

So..... here I am again lol. I've got roughly 700 miles on this new rotor and yesterday my bike died mid ride. I noticed the voltage was dropping and it wasn't charging, turned around to head home and made it 1 mile from there. I haven't pulled it off yet, but based on the last one it sure...

For anyone reading, absolutely do not order part #07710-0010401, it is not what you need for this job at all. My neighbor helped fabricate the spanner from an old socket, and neither one of us can fathom wtf the pictured tool would be used for lol.

So.... can someone explain to me how this things works? I got a new retainer which looks like it would go on and off with a spanner wrench and I don't see how this tool would be used at all in relation to the retainer.

What about the tools to put the new ones back in? Are they needed or can I just use a socket of approximate size?

I've never had the front wheel off at all on my 1979, about to tackle the front bearing. The manual indicates I need retainer wrench 07710-0010400, can it be done without it? What do I do? I've searched the forum and don't see anything, and all the YouTube hits are for SOHC which looks like a...

Ah yah those look like the right curves. Using an 18 up front is closer to the factory spec, but having the extra pull with the shorter gearing is a blast. I don't remember what all was available for the back, but I think there's a 45 available from JT also. You can go taller on the gears to...

7200rpm at 50mph in 5th would suggest a top speed of 69mph at 10k rpms. Have you tested top speed?

Whoa, there's no way that's correct IMO. That's even shorter than what I'm running and I went shorter on the numbers vs stock. At 60mph I'm at about 5k in 5th. Have you changed tire size, tach drive, anything else like that? TBH that's so far off I'd almost guess you're not really in 5th at...

Hey Luis, I've kept the rubber one on and have about 1,200 miles on it with no issues. That's the JT339.17RB in front, and JTR284.48 in back with a 530 JT chain. I got a 110 link chain and had to take out one link for it to fit. I never rode it with the 630 chain but the math says it's under...

I've got a moderate oil leak coming from the valve cover on the #1 side of the bike. I did replace the gasket, clean surfaces, etc when setting all the valves up. I also got brand new rubber since it was all pretty nasty. Unfortunately in this process I also discovered that the two bolts to...

Well it appears the voltage issue was caused by a new alternator failing. I put a new Rick's rotor on it and the voltage is perfect. The build quality also appears to be much better. The burnt one I took out had less than 600 miles on it. The epoxy was brittle and it was pretty clear they...