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Not sure how you installed it but did you leave everything loose and then tighten down after everything was set up? I would also check to make sure you don't have two washers at the exhaust port (they can be left behind when missed). Other than that, stick with changing the washers and then...

Going up a 16th of an inch will have almost zero impact.

If you have Mikunis, are they CR?

I don't have your generation of bike, but if you're not getting spark on 1and 4 but the points are good, it is time to dive into testing that coil. If it passes then you test the part before that (spark unit / capacitor). Nice up the ignition system line until you find it. Hopefully the gurus...

Absolutely, if the dimensions are good. I tried with fiberglass. Might try again.

Funny you mention it. I looked into that. That voltmeter is the smallest I could find; .25". The housing for the voltmeter is too big for that window. And even if you could fit it, that window has an etching on it that didn't let the LED light through well, plus it has a red tint. unless...

Added a voltmeter today. Well, finished it after 2 weeks, anyway. Built it out of sheet metal, soldering the seams. Instrument cluster is lit with green so opted for a green LED. Took off the original super thin wires and soldered slightly larger gauge on. Positive wire goes to the fuse...

Been there. Seattle is dicked up, anyway. Better off driving across the mountains for a good deal.

You're right, that is too expensive for that bike

It's all over the forum. So many people have tried.

Used a screwdriver many times to pinpoint stuff like that. The vibrations run through metal really because the metal's molecules are tightly bonded. The vibrations carry through the metal screwdriver. Not unlike a stethoscope picking up vibrations, but through a diaphragm.

Try vintagecb750.com

For your turn signals, is the switch acting properly but there is no signal light, or is the switch acting broken? I could have used a shim exchange program a couple weeks ago. I bought a kit from 4into1 (I think, don't quote me) and it was around 60 bucks. I still ended up having to order 2...

You gotta keep us informed after the install! Plenty of people asking questions about the very thing you're about to do.

What tubing do you mean? The carb sync gauges are largely the same but they are far from precision tools. Much easier to use a 4-gauge than a single or double.

Sorry, can't help you there. Jets are specific to your environment (specific intake and altitude). Search this forum and you might find somebody who figured it out, but it is like searching for a needle in a haystack.

I wouldn't bother running the bike anymore until the carbs are rebuilt (I use all ballz racing). Rubber boots are a good idea but only if they are truly cracked and need it. I would also flush the brake system. Definitely going to want to change that battery, I think. Also wouldn't hurt to...

I'm not sure where that's coming from. Take a long handle screwdriver and put the tip on the crankcase and put your ear to the handle and do that to different parts of the bike and you'll you'll find out where the sound is coming from. Try crankcase, along the cam chain, spots on the valve...

Boots are still available. Vintagecb750.com, z1enterprises, raddaks, dimecitycycles, and probably some others

Crankcase breather won't affect top end

If it ran with that set up, 2 things: what are your jets and filters, and something is up with your main jet perhaps. The first one is to help everybody else that wants to run pods. I think you need to break open your carbs and look at your needle and main jet. Those are affect your top end.

I don't blame you. carbs aren't a lot of fun and now you have 4, and they share a fuel rail. Plus they can be a pain to mount if the rubber boots on either side are hardened.

I haven't broken them down to every bolt or screw. But as long as you clean the jets, fuel passageways, air passageways, throttle moves without issue, choke moves without issue, and piston valves go up and down without binding, they should work.

You could go with a different set but you'll have to remember to space them apart correctly for this bike. But I've seen some pretty ugly carbs come back just fine.

I'm sure there are. Don't know them by name though.

I like that 750FZ. It looks like a K front end with a nighthawk back end.

Only sharing the differences here. Especially running versus not running. Cb750/900 not running is 1500. Running is 3500.

Depends on their condition in the US. And the location. I've seen them cheaper in the northern states versus the southern states

Harder to find than you might think

That's a lot. They must have a shop minimum charge. Keep looking