Search results

Could be a stuck float, are you sure you installed it correctly? Try tapping hard on the float bowl and see if it seals.

Definitely looks a bit weird, almost like something is bent.

I went with just some generic copies of the original, cant complain (yet). I would say that if you are just looking for a replacement and won't make any other upgrades to the ignition, generic will be fine.

Have never done it myself, but have always heard that soldering is the way to go.

Definitely sounds like a ignition issue, I would start by looking into the ignition side of wiring and confirm voltage to coils.

Intended.

A good place to start!

Understood, does the bike have a history of electrical problems?

No problem!

Regarding your fork swap, maybe this is something you could use : https://cognitomoto.com/collections/triple-clamps_handlebars_controls/products/fixed-offset-retro-triple-tree-conversion-30mm-45mm-50mm-55mm-60mm Big price tag tho......

Sounds very strange, Only thing I can think of, is if you have a bad main ground and all the current went thru the neutral switch yo ground (engine) instead. What do you mean by "testing for continuity" ? Can you describe the procedure?

I looked up your bike on CMSNL , is this the caliper you have? https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb750c-750-custom-1982-c-usa_model7239/caliper-comp_45101ma3006/ If you scroll down on the product page, you can see all the bikes that had that part from factory. Hope this helps!

Hi, welcome to the forum! Sounds like you have a great project bike. To answer your questions: 1. Seems like the right order to do things. Get the right manual if you can find one, it helps. 2. I will attach a pic from CMSNL of your frame, you can see two NR.3 bushings that goes between...

Welcome to the forum! Looks like you have a good base but your wiring definitely needs some work. Did you buy the bike like this or was it running? To answer your questions : 1. The controls can be soldered in to your bikes harness, but I need to see some kind of wiring diagram of the...

Hi! I got this new in box unused cylinder head for F/C model years 1979-1980. Part number : 12010-425-020 Same part as this : https://www.cmsnl.com/products/head-cylinder_12010425020/ Its located in Finland (EU) and can be shipped on the buyers expense. Price is negotiable. Kind Regards, Robin

No problem! Happy to help, good luck.

Great! Yes if I remember correctly, the main ground would be somewhere in the middle of the harness, most often a green 5cm long wire with a ring terminal, make sure to clean and tighten it. Use some sandpaper to remove paint to get to bare metal.

That would also explain why the "tail light warning" light in the dash only lights up when the clutch is pulled, if not pulled "stop and tail light warning sensor" unit gets no ground. Remember this is just me thinking....

Okay hear me out, If your main harness ground is bad, the system needs it from somewhere else. It COULD be that the circuit only gets ground if the clutch lever is pulled (closed) AND the neutral gear is selected, that way all the ground the circuit gets is from the neutral switch. To test...

Not sure if this is the same as your wiring scheme, but here you can see that the stop/run and starter switches are parallel to each other. The stop/run only take away the ignition circuits power.

Hi! Welcome to the site, I saw your post on the CBX forum! I do not have the same bike as yours, but the electrical stuff is pretty similar. Regarding your run/stop switch, Im not really sure but I think it is supposed to be like that. The switch maybe only kills the ignition but not the...

The two big bolts on the bottom keeps the case halves together, the two small ones on the side keeps the crankcase cover in place. The two small ones seems to be the origin of the leak.

Seems to be coming from the split between the case and crankcase cover. Drain oil and inspect the paper gasket, its cheap so order it before you take things apart.

The main fuse is often built into your starter solenoid, a blade fuse behind a little door.

Cant really speak on any other batteries, just stick to some reputable brand with good reviews. The form factor is important, depending on if you are going to empty out the under seat "triangle" or not.

No problem, the colors have no real meaning. I just like to paint! One more thing I would recommend : If you cut into your original harness, be sure to cut "after" the plugs. That way if any of your original components die, you can always just plug in a new one. Just hit me up if you need any...

In PDF I have circled the parts you would normally keep in a conversion.

Nope, mine didn't have one. But good point, he should have one.

To answer your electrical questions : 1. When building my bike, I read around and many sources stated that you need 200cca minimum for a 750 DOHC, I went with a Ultrabatt 300cca and it cranks the engine like theres no tomorrow. Highly recommend. 1a. For my M-unit conversion I cut out all the...

Sounds like a good idea, I have been looking at new carbs myself but have not pulled the trigger on them yet! For a while I was looking at this filter : https://cognitomoto.com/collections/engine/products/cb750-air-intake-box-sohc-and-dohc?variant=11585137601 Looks really good but unsure...