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That's what I've fitted to the carbs I've overhauled R9 fuel hose of the correct bore cut to length will withstand any of the fuels around. Loki

Look for names like Gates and Agoma I've used both without any issues, on fleabay planet silicone and online parts direct I've used as well, main thing is R9 and don't let anyone try to tell you R6 is just as good it's not it might last a while but sitting on top of a hot engine will kill it. Loki

Are the damaged holes accessible to tap for helicoils? studs would be better than screws then you can wind them in to the bottom of the threads so you can be sure they are secure, same set up as the F1. Loki

Start with perforated pipe same diameter as the mid pipe, there is a packing material available which swells with heat which makes it easy to insert then it swells, you'll need a closing infill to close off the gap between the perforated pipe and the "silencer"case. I used this in my Corvette...

You need R9 spec hose which withstands ethanol and is high pressure rated for fuel injection, I use this on all my classic cars and bikes, I've bought it on Amazon and Ebay, beware of sellers passing off R6 as suitable for E fuels but it is not! Loki

I got a Chinese one on Ebay for cheap should go straight in there.

Hi David, when you balanced the carbs with the vacuum gauges what rpm were you running at? If you were at around say 1200 then you are off the idle system and running on the needle jets, if altering the idle screws has no affect the idle passages are probably blocked. If you have stripped and...

Unscrew the locking rings then if you lift the needle clear of the needle jet you can gently manouver them away from the fork and engage them one by one into the fork, I discovered this after doing the same as you! Loki

Same here with my F1

Looking good there hoping to get mine together soon finally had some warm weather and managed to get the tank sealed then on to complete the wiring and a bit of finishing on the exhaust. Loki

Looking at the photos I'd say there would be very little meat left if the counterbores were present, perhaps a smaller counterbore with thinner O rings might work? Loki

This is who I use but they're UK based so probably not much help? http://www.marquerestore.co.uk/ Loki

I grit blasted mine with fine ground glass them epoxy primer, high build primer, basecoat and lacquer, came out good and no more rust worries. Loki

I need to retyre mine as they are decades old and cracking so I'd be interested to see what fits. Loki

The quality of chrome on repro parts is very variable, I'd go with rechrome original parts just had some done for my F1, I bought a set of Chinese crash bars and will be having them rechromed with my next batch as the chrome is already flaking, the guy I use completes to better than OEM and I...

You could buy an industrial size ultrasonic cleaner for that price and start a new business!! Loki

Get what you mean but at present I would have no reserve, a less than ideal set up, I will probably make it slightly shorter to give more main and less reserve, I've found some suitable tube to make it with just need to find a drill to get a nice tight fit in the cock. Loki

Been cleaning my tank in preparation for pouring in the liner and after getting out all the screws I dropped in there was still something rattling about in the tank, after a lot of shaking and poking got it all out. It would appear a PO has poured epoxy resin into the tank to seal the bottom...

Brilliant many thanks, still raining here! Loki

Hi all, made a start at cleaning my tank and when I removed the fuel valve I found the filter and the tube to provide reserve fuel were missing, not bothered about the filter as will be fitting an inline filter butt without the tube there will be no reserve fuel, I can probably find some tube to...

My frame id plate was glued and rivetted in place when I removed it to paint the frame so after I had painted the frame I replaced it the same way. UK bike by the way. Loki

I went for a Chineseset at a bargain price only downside is the chrome is crap but they’ll do for now I’ll be getting some more chroming done down the line so will probably chuck them in at the same time. Loki ill need to look up the advert on eBay and see what it says regarding fitments went...

Started prepping the tank for the liner so will give a run down once it's done. Loki

I've done the acetone wash, left it in for a week or so shaking repeatedly, drained the acetone which was quite brown then put the pressure washer in through the filler hole and gave it a good blasting to loosen the debris, there was quite a bit of what looked like clear epoxy which kept...

Cleaned out the petrol tank after soaking in acetone for a few days, drained it off then a blast with the pressure washer to get as much loosened off then a good rinse out with hot water before getting it dried off with the fan heater. Next job get the coating done to protect from the dreaded...

We’ve been having biblical amounts of wind and rain as well as snow and ice so not biking weather here either! Loki

I got mine finished just got to finish the polishing, bought a Chinese muffler to finish it off as I couldn’t make one for what it cost! There’s pictures on my other posts. Loki

The boot between the air box and carb is different F1 to F2 not a huge difference but when you put them side by side it’s obvious.

I used Eastwood gloss black chassis paint which is DTM (direct to metal) so no primer required. It's an excellent frame paint too. Loki

Pity you didn't notice before you got to this stage, as long as the crank is OK find a straight rod and carry on with the build, did you manage to get the barrels back to a usable condition? What about the head? Careful use of a wood chisel will usually get old gaskets off, the sharper the...