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Think you'll need to lower both ends, to avoid affecting the handling (the weird world of rake and trail). But that will reduce ground clearance, especially at larger lean angles. I wouldn't do it if you plan to ride decent roads at pace. Lower seat is the way to go.

Google local auto paint factors. They have a nice tool which scans panels with good paint to identify a pigment mix to match. They can mix to match and supply in aerosols. I have one not too far from me in Colchester. I took my 66 year old (red) car and the match has been perfect.

I've tried a couple of different brands of engine paint. Neither withstood E5 from carb leaks. Obviously, avoid carb leaks. But a pain to protect 100% whenever carbs are being removed, as I was doing for a while, to fix problems at the time. Nearly 2 years ago, I was fed up with engine paint...

I fitted a rear mudguard on my K6, sourced from Vietnam. It looks good. It was very difficult to fit. It is slightly the wrong profile making it a very, very tight fit between the rear frame loop mounts. It took a lot of leverage and great care to avoid scratches. I am checking it regularly, as...

Mine was leaking. Oil stains etc. I even had a sheared bolt between exhaust 2 and 3 where I'd guess a PO had over-torqued to cure the leak. I rode it for 1500 miles, to make the most of summer, see if anything else showed up and to make sure I liked the bike enough to restore it. Despite the...

Cam chain tensioning: IIRC, no.1 should be TDC on the compression stroke. I think that's because it is a point where the chain is at its loosest.

I used Evaporust and washed it out with petrol. Probably less than a couple of gallons and 2 or 3 rinses, to get it clear. My tank wasn't bad to start with though, no deep pitting etc., just discoloured. Maybe cleaning out with water causes flash rusting? I've done 5,000 miles since and the...

I had my frame, brackets, battery box, side and centre stands etc. done, but not the swing arm, chain guard and front yokes which were in good condition. They were handed over with whatever paint was on them and rusty. They came back pristine and black powder-coated, having been blasted and...

Mine are the same.

My initial thought was, surely this is the wrong type of bike. But, thinking about it, they're heavy enough and good, smooth low down torque. Could be interesting. Not what I'd do, but could be good. Be interesting to see what response you get. I would look at upgrading the brakes though!

I did everything myself apart from the frame powdercoating and cylinders borescope measurements and re-hone. Mine was turning over, non-runner, rusty frame with awful hand brushed sections, ripped seat, but good tank. 2 destroyed carbs, a bad head, hole on the rear fender and a cracked rear...

That's been my experience also. I found, unless you have a replating kit, whatever you do to the nuts and bolts doesn't last. I've steadily replaced all of those that are easily visible. Most alloy and chrome responds to the more gentle metal polishes. I found off the shelf engine paint doesn't...

Google search the Honda version workshop manual. I downloaded mine free. All in there. I gave up on my bouncy Honda rear shocks and bought Hagons. Very good. On the front, all I did was flush the forks and replaced the seals. I experimented with fork oil weight and didn't find a huge difference...

I don't use additives on any of my old bikes or my 50s car. No problems. I do avoid E10 though. On my 750k6, I replaced the brake lines with braided (black sleeved, so look stock), replaced the pads and removed the pivot pin, cleaned it up nice, greased it and new o-rings. The brakes are now...

I used a thin punch wrapped in a thin microfiber towel and tapped it out. Quite tight as I recall, but no damage. Had to do it twice, as the replacement brass was rubbish, so went back to the original. I wouldn't remove it to clean the carb, but the emulsion tube definitely needs cleaning.

Possibly oil in the head leaking slightly down the valve guides and pooling there after shutting the engine down? Many old OHV British bikes are prone to this, but run for years without a problem. Maybe switch to 20W50.

One of mine was bent. I've done 4,000 miles on a David Silver replacement without any problem. The fork gaiters I bought at the same time though, they are showing some deterioration.

Similar story as mine, except I have stock pipes. I went very carefully through the carbs with cleaner and compressed air in every tube and each circuit in the carb body. I did replace the brass, but went back to the original, as the replacements (Keyster brand) made mine run rich. Their gaskets...

I understood that due to casting tolerances, the case halves were matched in the factory. Some may interchange fine, but that's luck. If you've done everything correctly, this may be your problem. You may need the other half of the good one.

Has it been standing? If so, it can sort itself out with a few runs on the road. If it were me (and it was, 3 years ago!), I'd get a workshop manual. The Honda one is the best in my opinion and can be downloaded free of charge, just Google it. Then do the safety checks (tyres, brakes, chain...

These 750Ks are cold blooded, even when set up well. They won't idle well until nicely warmed through. I had blocked pilot jets, so the bike wouldn't run off choke. All came good with a thorough clean. Not just the jets, but also carb cleaner through the passages in the carb body, then blow...

You can go round in circles on oil. I just stick to some simple rules: - JASO MA2 standard allows the clutch to work and not glue the plates up. - 10W40 or 20W50 (I use the latter, as it doesn't generally get as hot in the UK). - Change the oil and filter regularly. We have gearboxes chewing...

What rubber cushions? None on a SOHC 750 clutch. They all rattle somewhat. Sort your points and time the ignition, balance your carbs and set your idle at 1300rpm. Usually sorts it out. 👍

Have you checked the clutch adjustment (inside the right side cover)? Dangerous to talk about oil.... I don't know Rotella. Is it JASO MA2 spec (which is the stuff meant to be suitable for a wet clutch)? Also, the spec for our oil is 10W40 and 20W50. I have tried both and in hot weather I...

Have you tried HEL?

They're not Philips heads, they are JIS. A Philips screwdriver will round out the heads. I use a manual impact driver with JIS bits. Pretty cheap on Amazon and I had 100% success getting previously undisturbed screws moving when I took my K6 apart. Seriously recommend.

Dirtdigger, at 1300rpm I'd guess the advancer could be starting to move. I haven't found it causes any hunting or hanging on my 750K6, so maybe those issues arrive if other aspects of the motors tune need attention, e.g. carb synch, running lean...?

It's a common question when you first get one of these bikes. First I highly recommend you download a copy of the workshop manual. It's comprehensive and easy to follow, takes things in steps. You don't mention how many miles on your engine. If regularly serviced they seem to run for high...

If I'm filling a system from empty, I remove the caliper from the disc, then tip it up, so the bleed nipple is the lowest point in the system. Then I use a medium size syringe, like you can get for turkey basting in a cook shop. I put a short plastic hose on the syringe, prime it with brake...

The caliper sits against the fork leg and then the mudguard.