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Smaller shim will give you more gap. Larger shim will leave less gap. (The valve is at rest, the cam is at rest, the difference in gap is how much stuff you have inbetween those 2.) Example would be a water bottle. Its 20oz no matter what. There can only be air and liquid. The more liquid (shim)...

They all look tight to me. Again, I go with .08-.13mm. I start on the loose side cause they will tighten up over time.

I'm looking for other options than reusing the stock head studs... Has anyone found a different bolt that can be tapped to fit (maybe a heavy duty m12?)

Thanks for the tip. Ill have to check it out at some point. I've been running a rebuild kit for some time, but maybe its been wrong for a while...

I didn't catch that. Makes sense. .005" = .127mm

I have been told (I think by amc49) to go higher on the valve clearances. Spec is too tight. Anyways I shot for .08mm all around with a range of +.05 and -.02, so anywhere between .13 and .06.

Bit late, but, I have excessive buildup on cylinder #2 (only noticed cause I was doing fork seals and needed to pull the exhaust to use a stand) Kinda puzzled, but needed to pull the coils to remove the valve cover, and had previously scribbled 1423 on the coils, and tracing the lines, I've been...

Gives me a place to look. May actually get looked at before winter! Thank ya! https://www.cb750c.com/publicdocs/SeanG/Honda_Carb_Manual_revG.pdf page 40 has the bypass info

It has done this for a while, but figured I should ask. Might be obvious to someone. Bike starts and runs fine. Idles fine. Put into gear and ride, great. When I am rolling, and shift into neutral and just coast, it doesn't want to hold idle and will die. But, if I keep the revs up until I come...

Changing oil to JASO rated moto specific, seems to have slowed if not stopped the leak... Gotta get more miles on to be sure.

Installed the new stator today. Plugged in a freshly charged battery, still holding at 12.4v Fired it up, and test rode it. The voltage is reading 12v thru all rpms. Maybe the regulator rectifier fried (it seems to be the stock unit.) Really wish there was a bench test for the regulator/rectifier.

A few days ago, I fired up the bike and noticed I was sitting at about 11.3 Rode it a little, and the voltage slowly dropped. Barely made it home to about 10.7v Tried to fire it up again, and nada. Put the battery on charge and got it back to 12.4 holding. Went outside, checked the stator wires...

Good to know. I've been running the same auto synthetic 10w40 for years. My started slips occasionally, but I assumed the rollers were worn, or the synthetic was messing with it. The bike needs an oil change anyways so Ill swap over to a motorcycle approved formula. Thanks!

The crankcase pressure was just a shot in the dark, and I used Loctite 518 flange sealant. I dont think the cases are the issue. I assumed 10w40 was 10w40. They make motorcycle specific oil?? HAHA

New here so, Howdy! I've got a '79 750k that has been rebuilt. Story goes: 2 winters ago, I did a complete refresh of a bike I've slowly been building up. The motor was taken out, new chain guides were installed, new rings, and the head was rebuilt. Last summer, I failed to adjust the timing...