Yup, exactly what I’ve learned. Why I chose an early 70s bike with four carbs to be my first to try to rebuild I’ll never know. Probably should have had a running one next to it to see how it worked first. Oh well! It’s all good now
It does kill the engine if the engine is warm and I put the choke on. My problem is it doesn’t act like a more modern choke in that it won’t start or idle choked when cold, but that seems to be a common problem with very early carbs. I verified no light was getting through at all when they’re...
Plugs all look good and it idles great! Choke still doesn’t help but it warms up quickly. I’m not worried about the tappet adjustment after seeing those numbers. Thanks everyone.
So keeping in mind the fact that they don’t move in a straight line, adding a curve to that measurement would increase it just slightly, but the fact that I’m using a flat edge to measure something that starts with one angle and ends with another (then barely reducing the movement), it should be...
Okay tried a flat tip (duh.), got 0.315 inlet and 0.312 outlet. I don’t know if the rocker arm geometry ends up reducing the lift at the tappets or increasing them, but these look really close to stock
Just got 0.355” on the inlet side and 0.311” on the outlet. Getting the dial indicator set perfectly in line is harder than I thought and the slot for a flathead screwdriver on the top of the tappet makes it worse.
Sorry, it wasn’t a float height problem. The fuel line to 1&2 went uphill. Once I routed it correctly I see all fuel levels even and at the correct height. Dealing with carb boot leaks at the head now. New boots, 46 and 44mm clamps don’t seal it well enough. I can’t even crank the 44mm all the...
Alright, it’ll hold a steady idle and sounds good at 1100. Still can’t use the choke to start or warm it up or it sounds like it’s flooding, all four plugs are a very light tan so bumping the idle jets down to 38s and trying the choke doesn’t seem like a great idea.
Did the clear tube fuel...
And I’ll just say, it’s true amc your responses weren’t exactly inviting for a first time poster. The “you’re wrong and if you don’t listen to me you’re also stupid” sort of stuff isn’t what people are looking for when they’re inexperienced with these bikes and need help.
Update: relay has been installed so I’ve got battery voltage at the coils. Float valves will arrive today so I’ll set those first and see how it runs, then check the lift with the dial indicator.
Thanks a lot for all that. I was able to adjust things to get 12.3 at the coil posts with 12.8 at the battery. Drops to 11.8 with the lights on.
I pulled the carbs and the jets are clear, they’re bench synced. I realized I set the floats while the carbs were flat so they’re all set too high...
Looking at the likely suspects as far as popular cams in a run of the mill 836, at manual settings I could be .003 and .002 off. Maybe .002 and .001 off. The lift on some of these cams appears to be as much as .03 higher than the stock numbers I found, which would be real easy to see... let’s...
I’ve been working on this thing for four months pretty non stopped and I think build exhaustion hit me for a second. At the very least I’ll try using a dial indicator to measure the lift. Do you have the stock numbers? I see .315 intake and .313 exhaust.