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Wheel bearings

Snottyvar

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Restoring a 1977 CB750K on a budget. Wheel bearings are running $30-$50 on line (6304LU bearing) but I can get the 6304 2RS at Princess Auto for $7, same dimensions, 2RS indicating they are sealed on both sides. Is anyone using these bearings? They sure look and feel good
 
A "wheel bearing" isn't any kind of special part -- as long as it's the same part code and made to the same tolerance, it'll roll just like the ones in the kits.

Cheaper bearings may not last as long, however, as those from more prestigious manufacturers.
 
Thanks for the reply. I've been reading about bearing tolerances and classes, ABEC ratings etc. and I might be over thinking it. Bearings for industrial applications often need higher tolerances for load and RPM and usually have a higher ABEC rating than those manufactured for wheel bearings. Either way I'm using them.
 
I had to do the same thing when shopping for a replacement bearing in my BMW motorcycle's transmission. Bearings can get way more complicated than I ever thought.

You should be alright, though. Wheel bearings will give you plenty of warning before any kind of catastrophic failure -- they'll make noise when rolling which gets louder as they get worse, and you can also quickly/easily inspect the bearings for play any time you service the bike. You just grab the wheel at 12-and-6 and 9-and-3, and try to rock the wheel back and forth on its axle in each position. If you hear any clicking or feel any movement that isn't the tire, they're wearing out.

One thing I will say is that if you're properly budget-conscious, you can "restore" the original bearings on a serious budget if they are not crunchy or loose or otherwise damaged. Despite all the literature saying otherwise, if you're careful, you can pop a seal off of a sealed bearing and add some fresh grease to it. I do this with plastic tools so as not to damage the seal, as they usually have steel rings embedded in them that you can accidentally bend. You can push the seal back into its spot gently and the lip will usually pop right back into place.
I also put a thin layer of grease on the outside of the seal as an extra layer of protection to keep dust and moisture out.
 
The $7 ( Canadian ) makes getting new ones pretty easy. The old ones are shot. One might be serviceable but the other one is crunchy. The original bearings are not sealed and I can see dents in the ball retainer. I am going to repack the final drive bearing as it looks pretty good. The hub is looking good. Lots of elbow grease.
 

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Any sealed bearing will work.. and I hear this question a lot. Why not go with the OEM, sure you can save a few bucks..but you might rethink that with a "speed wobble" at 100 mph...or a rim lock up because the cheap skateboard bearings just said goodbye. Spend the extra money keep it genuine that way you know what it is and what's in it.
 
Any sealed bearing will work.. and I hear this question a lot. Why not go with the OEM, sure you can save a few bucks..but you might rethink that with a "speed wobble" at 100 mph...or a rim lock up because the cheap skateboard bearings just said goodbye. Spend the extra money keep it genuine that way you know what it is and what's in it.
It's easy enough to check the bearings for wobble every time the chain gets cleaned and oiled. Wheel bearings on a motorcycle also start to howl long before they fail that bad...though it can be hard to hear over a good exhaust.

You do have a point, though. The OEM bearings are definitely quality (NTN 6304LLU). OP could get the exact same ones on Amazon for half the price Honda charges, and that's only $3 more than those Princess Auto bearings.
 
It's easy enough to check the bearings for wobble every time the chain gets cleaned and oiled. Wheel bearings on a motorcycle also start to howl long before they fail that bad...though it can be hard to hear over a good exhaust.

You do have a point, though. The OEM bearings are definitely quality (NTN 6304LLU). OP could get the exact same ones on Amazon for half the price Honda charges, and that's only $3 more than those Princess Auto bearings.
Doesn't necessarily pertain to bearings...comes to any part...espially on a bike..its not always like on a car where you can just pull it over,..there's a reason why the litlle guys in Japan with there white coats and plastic hats did the r&d that they did...there smart.
 
Yes, the engineers who designed these motorcycles were smart. But there's no magic in what they did. Just engineering.

As long as you have a clear idea of the implications of changing or modifying a part, the risks are known. Wheel bearings aren't rocket science.
 
Yes, the engineers who designed these motorcycles were smart. But there's no magic in what they did. Just engineering.

As long as you have a clear idea of the implications of changing or modifying a part, the risks are known. Wheel bearings aren't rocket science. Like I said it doesn't necessarily pertain to wheel bearings
 
Like I said it doesn't necessarily pertain to wheel bearings I've been a mechanic for over 30 years I'm fully aware of what wheel bearing replacement involves especially on a CB750, if you use stock parts for OEM style replacement parts it makes it easier for the next guy which is normally me therefore I know what I'm dealing with not some hacked up POS,good luck.
 
K
Like I said it doesn't necessarily pertain to wheel bearings I've been a mechanic for over 30 years I'm fully aware of what wheel bearing replacement involves especially on a CB750, if you use stock parts for OEM style replacement parts it makes it easier for the next guy which is normally me therefore I know what I'm dealing with not some hacked up p.o.s...the risk is never known when you modify a part unless you modified it before.Good luck.
 
OEM bearings are manufactured to JIS 0, a good general purpose bearing. Bearings with more demanding loads and RPM ratings are JIS 5 or better. Often industrial bearings are superior to OEM bearings as well as cheaper because they are not from Honda or any extra middle man.
 
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