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Exhaust Options 1980 750C

mpfalcone24

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Hey everyone! Newbie here!
Read every thread I could find on exhausts for my bike and I see a lot of discussion regarding swapping different years but nothing on my question...

Just picked up an 80’ 750c at auction with 3k original miles...it was a steal and I am very excited! Carbs are a mess and front brake is seized so I am in the process of rebuilding both the only other issue I have found is (at is not uncommon) is the rust on the bottoms of the mufflers...

I would prefer to keep this bike original but as you may or may not know you can no longer get the four muffler pipes..

So my question is which is the better option and will require little to no carb adjustments...the 4 into 1 or 4 into 2 option?

My gut tells me the 4 to 2 may not require any adjustments but I’m pretty new to the carb game...

Any links and assistance is appreciated!
 
4-2 jets less, the 4-1 if it works well will get further away from OEM jetting. Bear in mind ANY crap designed part can mess jetting up depending on how worthless the silencing method is used. 4-1 if a MAC may work fine with normal jetting, not a very good one. The CV type carbs will self adjust jetting to a certain amount anyway. The good 4-1 header choices are all going away rapidly now.
 
Thanks

4-2 jets less, the 4-1 if it works well will get further away from OEM jetting. Bear in mind ANY crap designed part can mess jetting up depending on how worthless the silencing method is used. 4-1 if a MAC may work fine with normal jetting, not a very good one. The CV type carbs will self adjust jetting to a certain amount anyway. The good 4-1 header choices are all going away rapidly now.

Thanks AMC. Just want to make sure I understood you correctly. A 4-2 or even a 4-1 may not require any re-jetting as long as they are quality pipes?

The MAC systems look few and far between you weren’t kidding about them going away quickly! Any experience with Delkevic headers? Will they work? There seem to be a lot of them still around
 
Thanks AMC. Just want to make sure I understood you correctly. A 4-2 or even a 4-1 may not require any re-jetting as long as they are quality pipes?

The MAC systems look few and far between you weren’t kidding about them going away quickly! Any experience with Delkevic headers? Will they work? There seem to be a lot of them still around

6e1e4eb618305f05931a33abb02dd752.jpg


Here it is by the way!


 
4-2 jets less, the 4-1 if it works well will get further away from OEM jetting. Bear in mind ANY crap designed part can mess jetting up depending on how worthless the silencing method is used. 4-1 if a MAC may work fine with normal jetting, not a very good one. The CV type carbs will self adjust jetting to a certain amount anyway. The good 4-1 header choices are all going away rapidly now.

Found theses online the are made by MAC performance and are designed to work with the stock headers...my question is how do I attach them? Do I cut the stock mufflers and down pipes and weld these on?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CB75...-/161076439778?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292


 
Yes. You can weld them on by screwing up the chrome but if you carefully draw lines and then cut 4 slots in each tube end you can use ordinary stainless rad hose clamps to hold them on. A dremel with a cutting disc would make a quick cutter for the slots. They show no slots there in pic but you may get parts already slotted.

Measure carefully so each slot ends up the same length, that allows you to carefully line up the clamp to just cover the slot inner ends and the best clamping point for sealing and good tightness. Make your slots maybe 1/8"-1/4" max longer than the clamp width. I use masking tape I can mark on when doing that work. Space the slots so you can get to each spot with the dremel without a tube interfering with the cutting angle.
 
Yes. You can weld them on by screwing up the chrome but if you carefully draw lines and then cut 4 slots in each tube end you can use ordinary stainless rad hose clamps to hold them on. A dremel with a cutting disc would make a quick cutter for the slots. They show no slots there in pic but you may get parts already slotted.

Measure carefully so each slot ends up the same length, that allows you to carefully line up the clamp to just cover the slot inner ends and the best clamping point for sealing and good tightness. Make your slots maybe 1/8"-1/4" max longer than the clamp width. I use masking tape I can mark on when doing that work. Space the slots so you can get to each spot with the dremel without a tube interfering with the cutting angle.

Once again thank you for your help AMC! Happy New Year to you and yours!


 
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