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Throttle stop screw

forgiven

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I need to balance the carbs on my K6. In reading the Honda Shop Manual for this bike there is a Throttle Stop Valve on the carbs and it is pictured in the manual. This is the valve used to adjust the vacuum. The problem is that my carbs don't have this screw installed and I believe these to be stock original carbs. The carb body has the housing as pictured in the manual but the body isn't penetrated for a screw. Has anyone encountered this on your factory carbs? Is it possible that somewhere along the line these carbs were on a different year motor? Any suggestions as to how to balance these carbs without this adjusting screw would be greatly appreciated.
 
post pictures of what you got

carburator.jpgcarburator.jpg
 
can you post a pic of the page of the manual that you are referring to? I think i know what you are talking about. I'm going to guess that you have a Clymer manual.
 
I do have a clymer but that isn't the one I'm reading. Attached is a cover pic as well as the page from it I'm talking about. Thanks for any assistance you can provide.
Honda Manual.jpgPage 79.jpg
 
Your manual is for the early K0 bikes with different carbs. If you notice in the photo each carb also has its own throttle cable...no linkage on the top connecting all 4 carbs thus each carb needed the screw to hold the carb slide at the same height. Totally different procedure needed to do a sync on your carbs. You use the lock nut and nut on the top of the linkage to adjust you slide when syncing. Your Clymer manual more then likely shows the same procedure as your early manual. They just copy information and dont verify that it is actually correct. Clymer manuals, especially the ones for the sohc bikes are best used to soak up any spilled oil in the shop then actual information use.
 
Is it all stock? airbox or pods? What exhaust? What pilot jets? What main jets? What position are the needs in? Float height correct? Ignition timing advance working correct and smooth?
 
Digger, thanks for point out all the variables. It isn't stock but has a cam and I punched it out to 856. It doesn't have the stock airbox but has pods and has a 4 into 1 exhaust. Two of the pipes are pretty bent from being dropped somewhere along the way. Jets (and total carb rebuild parts) are aftermarket but stock replacements. I believe the float heights to be correct. It has an electronic ignition, I'm going to advance the timing a bit to see if there is a favorable impact. It's funny but when cold acceleration from bottom to top is smooth. It's when it heats up a bit that I get the hesitation on the bottom end.
 
Everything done will have an affect on fuel needs. You really need to verify what jet sizes you have and what position the needles are in so you have a base line to judge your adjustments. When you are riding it during the hesitation slowly close the choke. If it gets better its lean if it gets better its already rich. If you havent touched the carbs your issue will probably be in the carb and the adjustments that it will need. I wouldnt mess with timing, make sure it is set at the most advanced notch and leave it. Make sure the advancer is free and working. The cam will have a huge affect on lower engine speed drivability, if it is fairly large it will be very hard to make low rpm smooth. Like said do the driving with the choke and see how it reacts it will tell you alot of what needs to be done.
 
Everything done will have an affect on fuel needs. You really need to verify what jet sizes you have and what position the needles are in so you have a base line to judge your adjustments. When you are riding it during the hesitation slowly close the choke. If it gets better its lean if it gets better its already rich. If you havent touched the carbs your issue will probably be in the carb and the adjustments that it will need. I wouldnt mess with timing, make sure it is set at the most advanced notch and leave it. Make sure the advancer is free and working. The cam will have a huge affect on lower engine speed drivability, if it is fairly large it will be very hard to make low rpm smooth. Like said do the driving with the choke and see how it reacts it will tell you alot of what needs to be done.

Excellent guidance, thank you. I'll give the choke trick a try. I know 3 of the 4 spark plugs are black which tells me I have a fuel mixture issue.
 
Charging System

Excellent guidance, thank you. I'll give the choke trick a try. I know 3 of the 4 spark plugs are black which tells me I have a fuel mixture issue.
My K6 charging system is producing 11.2 volts at the battery at idle. It increases to 12.1 around 2500 rpm and the battery runs down on rides over 20 miles. The battery was load tested and is good, the rectifier and regulator are new (replaced original components with a combined unit). Is there any way to test whether the charging problem sources in the Stator or in the Rotor individually or do they both need to be replaced together? Alternatively, is there possibly a way to test these as a unit before the charge hits the rectifier to see if the issue may be a short somewhere?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 
The rotor on the sohc motor is just a hunk of metal bolted to the crank, nothing can go bad on it. Has it had this problem before the aftermarket regulator? Have heard of several bad new ones from the cheap stores. If it started since you changed I would suspect either wired incorrect or bad regulator. The stator connectors at the cover can get loose and cause poor connections. Your honda manual should have test procedure for the components.
 
If the field coil that goes inside rotor cutout has somewhat shorted itself across part of the total wire length then the charge output will be lower and same thing if one of the diodes in rectifier has gone bad to leak. Aftermarket likely Chinese regulators are pretty much always suspect as to quality like said. A problem just like on cars now and alternators are so unreliable they commonly are bad right out of the boxes now, I used to reject about 20% of them when selling them. Both rebuilds AND even brand new ones.
 
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