nightengale
CB750 Member
'Lead' not 'head', the black ignition power wire you said before had power. You used the word yourself..........
'Did test the black "key on" lead, it works.'
That 'lead' supplies the fuseblock at all positions with the same wire and having turns, brake and horn but not others says fuseblock has something wrong with it. You need to test for power at all fuses with key on. You should likely get it on BOTH sides of each fuse.
Ignitors do not really test other than by switching to a known good one similar to the VR. Too complicated, simple voltmeter testing does not indicate all the things that can be wrong there.
Gonna toss you a curve ball that often shows up with severe shorts. If you take a wire that works fine with say 35 strands of copper in it and then melt it almost in two, to where say only 2 strands are all that are carrying power, the others have melted in half, then you will get voltage showing there on a voltmeter but the things getting power will not work due to not enough wire left to carry the correct amount of power to work the device. So, beware.
The word "Head" is on the fuse block cover sticker. I assume it means headlight. There is no power to this fuse on either side of the fuse (which is also intact).
Also, the "Oil" on the fuse block has no power with key on of course, not on either side of the fuse (which is also intact).
None of the dash lights come on either with key on, whereas they used to all light up when things were working electrically.
The black lead that mentioned before, I tested from the regulator plug, it's the black wire. It shows voltage when the key is on. I have not tested any ignition wires at the ignition.
I'll pull the ignition next and check for everything I can think of, although I do not know how to "test" an ignition for proper electrical function.