• Enter the April CB750 Supply gift certificate giveaway! It's easy... Click here, post something, and you're entered into the drawing!

CB750 K5 Restoration

They physically can not be swapped unless someone dig some really un safe butchering job on that caliper. The bleeder and tube use a different type of seat in the caliper all together. The bleeder hole is much deeper then the tubing line. That seems odd...
 
Wasn't sure DD.
It sounds logical like Grepper said, he might have a later model caliper for the opposite side of the wheel from a dual caliper set-up?
 
Wasn't sure DD.
It sounds logical like Grepper said, he might have a later model caliper for the opposite side of the wheel from a dual caliper set-up?

That's what I was thinking, that it was for a dual setup. Actually I posted the question on forums.sohc4.net. Someone suggested that there is an insert in there on the brake line side. That looks so, see parts diagram
CaliperHoseSeat_zpscd89161e.jpg


So then the question is, can it be taken out and put in the other hole w/o messing it up?
 
I was able to get that brake line insert out. I found a nail that fit through the hole from the inside, had to file down the head to fit in the inside hole, but catch the insert. Fed it though and put the end in my bench vice, then gave it a good yank and it came out. Put it in the other hole where the bleeder was and used a bolt with the same size thread to press it in.
 
From a manufacturer's standpoint I would have run them so the assembly guys could use it both ways which is what it sounds like they did.:wink2: However I don't know the engineering on the insert.
Hopefully it works out otherwise you might get a little gooey and need that rear drummy to do a good job.:yikes:
 
excellent result, what procedure did you use on them ?
Pretty standard polishing process. Paint remover to get clear coat off, then sanding with 220, wet 300, 400, 600, 800 grit. Then I have two polishing wheels on a bench grinder, first I use with Black compound, then the other with Rouge compound. Then I hand polish with Mothers aluminum polish. Lots of patience and elbow grease.
 
I'm looking forward to trying something completely new to me. Lacing my own wheels! More pictures to come, just got the rims in the mail yesterday.
I'm super happy with www.z1enterprises.com They have the best price on D.I.D. 19X1.85 and 18X2.15 40 Hole rims. They aren't listed for the CB750K, but rather a Kawasaki KZ900/1000, same rims though. Ordered Friday (payday) and got them Wednesday, and I picked the cheapest shipping, UPS Ground. I've ordered parts for this bike from both www.cb750supply.com and vintagecb750.com so far and both of those took more than a week.

Both rims, plus both throttle cables, $205 shipped, Great Deal!
20140402_182539_zpsccdzum7a.jpg

Sizes
20140402_182308_zpsoqv8oknw.jpg

Shinny new Chrome! Picture doesn't do it justice
20140402_184426_zpsvqtfgmzj.jpg
 
I like what you are doing. Do you have a fixture to check trueness and spoke tension?
I cashed in my winnings Tuesday at CB750.com, Looking forward to pretty new mirrors and spitometer cables.:D

Took the 73 out for some much needed therapy last night. :bike:
 
Awesome thread, wanted to say thanks for taking the effort to document your journey. I'm starting a similar trip with my 78 CB750K and this thread will be useful!
 
I like what you are doing. Do you have a fixture to check trueness and spoke tension?

I bought a wheel balancing stand, dial indicator and dial indicator stand from Harbor Freight. Yes, I read all the reviews on the wheel balancing stand. The biggest problem is the balancing axle being bent out of the box. When I asked for it there the worker handing me a box that look like it came from hell and back, I said give me an other one, and got one where the packaging looked good. Got it home and rolled the axle on a flat surface (glass top) and it was straight. Also the bearings rolled good, an other complaint I read on the reviews.

I've been reading and watching youtube videos on this.
I like Oakys Garage the best

I'm going to check that the nipples fit properly and drill out if necessary. As for spoke tension, I saw a video where a guy used a spoke torque wench. I'm going to do as Oaky does and just do it by sound. For some reason my hearing is still really good dispute all the Heavy Metal and Punk rock shows I went to in my youth. :D
 
This Sunday I got myself setup in the basement/rec room while my son was playing video games to do some wheel lacing.
Both hubs (polished), new rims, new spokes, HF trueing stand, spoke wench, dial indicator and stand.
20140406_132320_zpsrazmk1zx.jpg

20140406_132333_zpsadqhemjc.jpg

Back wheel first, seperate the inner and outer spokes, 20 each.
20140406_133132_zpsfzbvx8n4.jpg

Put the inners in first
20140406_134302_zpsbkw6gyvt.jpg

My first attempt was a fail, had to take it all apart and try again. It's important to get the orientation lined up first, otherwise you'll have to undo some spokes to get the next into place. The holes in the rim are angled, so you know what goes where. Also, the marks in the hub from the old spokes helped.
20140406_144538_zpsfiahkiie.jpg

Take is slow, tighten them a little at a time
20140406_183922_zps9zlhowqg.jpg

20140406_183934_zpsej9iuew4.jpg

Getting the inners laid out for the front went a lot smoother
20140406_195526_zps1cndjvif.jpg

All Laced up
20140406_224006_zpsdxnq8jzd.jpg


Specs say 2mm tolerance in run out and hop. I think I got it within 1 mm. One thing I leaned is that you'll see bumps and dips at the weld and to ignore those. No too hard, was kinda fun, like a puzzle.
 
Nice Job! The first one are always the hardest, All the D.I.D. rims I worked with had that wobbly spot at the weld as You said.
 
Back
Top