• Enter the March CB750 Supply gift certificate giveaway! It's easy... Click here, post something, and you're entered into the drawing!

Just scored this awesome 1980, and I'm new here so hi!

Raydog

CB750 Member
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Bend, OR
I just traded my 1978 750 K rolling chassis and many new parts straight across for this bike, an unmolested 1980 750 F SS that's been indoors all it's life, 21k miles and untouched for the last 27 years! Look alt the condition of the chrome! BTW, happy to be here!
 
Last edited:
pic of new cb 750 F

I'm sorry, I'm having a heck of a time....all my pics are posting upside down!
 

Attachments

  • 1980 cb750f SS.jpg
    1980 cb750f SS.jpg
    196.6 KB · Views: 277
  • 1980 cb 750f.jpg
    1980 cb 750f.jpg
    205.3 KB · Views: 266
Well, gotta rebuild calipers, change oil, tires, spark plugs, clean out gas tank, then I think I'll fire it up!
 
A question, the front right brake hose, what is it connected to? It should go up to the forks to a connecting tube which connects both front brake hoses to the front brake master cylinder hose. Nice bike though.
PS. It's an awkward job but check your valve clearances. Very often they have not been checked for years and will have closed up. It's a known problem, DO NOT set them to the clearances in the manuals, set them between 4-5 thou. You may find they are less than 2 thou. Honda knew about the problem but did nothing about it. The manuals clearances will cause valve burn out. Check your compression pressures first. They should be 170-150 psi. Lower than that check those valve clearances BEFORE ripping the carbs off and/or the cylinder head.
 
Last edited:
A question, the front right brake hose, what is it connected to? It should go up to the forks to a connecting tube which connects both front brake hoses to the front brake master cylinder hose. Nice bike though.
PS. It's an awkward job but check your valve clearances. Very often they have not been checked for years and will have closed up. It's a known problem, DO NOT set them to the clearances in the manuals, set them between 4-5 thou. You may find they are less than 2 thou. Honda knew about the problem but did nothing about it. The manuals clearances will cause valve burn out. Check your compression pressures first. They should be 170-150 psi. Lower than that check those valve clearances BEFORE ripping the carbs off and/or the cylinder head.

Thank you for the advice Chris! In answer to your question re: the lower front brake line.....This bike was a garage find that had been stored inside for 27 years! Notice that also, there is no front brake lever either, That stuff all came in a separate box but it's all there! I've got a truck load of replacement parts coming from all over, I'm really excited to modify and improve this scooter just like the 2 KZ 1000's and XS-11 I've done in the past. The 1980's era of muscle/superbikes REALLY respond well to motor, chassis and suspension mods. AND,I will store all the OEM stuff so it could be brought back to total stock if I was ever inclined to do so (or if I would ever part with it to another affection ado!).
 
DON'T put pods on it without compression close to that spec of 170 psi, the early Honda DOHC spits pod setups out like you never saw, the CV carbs there HATE them if the engine is not supertight. Hundreds of complaints to back that up. The OEM airbox rules on that particular bike. Had the exact same year myself. Shoot for .005" on valves, they tend to close up in valve recession and even worse now as the valves were heat treated for low lead gas, no lead makes them do it even faster. Why you check the compression. Any .002" valve setting is actually zero when running and can burn, don't ask how I know that.

The engines run hard but are very particular about a couple of things that tend to make them dogs easy as spit.
 
@Raydog - I'm a newbie here with a similar situation (although you bike is cleaner, she looks great) so please keep us posted on your progress.
 
Back
Top