1979 model won't turn over

[Bcoggin]

Rundown:

Was running fine.
Switched out stock handlebars for cafe racer style
Battery died while testing switching the electronics, which exposed a bad battery.
Put new battery in, bike cranked and throttle stuck.
Discovered broken casing on the throttle cable, switched both of those out
Reassembled and the bike wouldn't turn over.
Was cranking in neutral and the ignition just kept trying.
Checked the fuel line as I was afraid it had become crimped when moving and replacing the tank, seemed fine.
Tried to crank in first, and the bike tries to move forward despite having the clutch handle all the way in.

Am I on the right track thinking that the smaller handlebars and alignment of the clutch cable has resulted in too much play in the clutch and I am unable to fully engage the clutch, thus the bike won't turn over?

Should I try to lay the clutch cable differently, to tighten up the action on the clutch.

Is it possible to shorten a clutch cable? It looks much easier to replace than the throttle cables.

How far should the lever on the side of the engine move when the clutch is engaged?

I swear, had I know how damn hard it was going to be I would have just stayed with the stock handlebars.

 

[dirtdigger]

Rundown:


Tried to crank in first, and the bike tries to move forward despite having the clutch handle all the way in.


Why are you trying to start it in first? There is always drag on the clutch even with the clutch pulled all the way in. How much does the clutch lever move before you start to engage the clutch?

 

[Bcoggin]

I'm new to all of this. I know I should crank in neutral, I learned that in my MSF class, but I often forget and crank in the gear that I was in when I shut the bike off. It's always turned over before. The lever moves maybe an inch at the end of the clutch action. There is a good deal of slack in the cable.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[Bcoggin]

I mean to say that the clutch, fully engaged, has always allowed the bike to start, regardless of it being in first or second. Obviously letting the clutch out caused stalling in any gear but first..

 

[chopit]

"Was cranking in neutral and the ignition just kept trying."

your bike not starting has nothing to do with your clutch cable. You don't even need a clutch cable to start it in nuetral....

since there is no way for anyone here to know exactly what all you had disconnected, kinda hard to diagnose but

First...make sure you are getting fire to the plugs, gas to the carbs. Or are you saying it wont even turn over?

 

[Bcoggin]

No I mean it won't fully crank it stops just shy of full ignition.

 

[cyclebuster]

none of your terminology makes any sense. i suggest a profesional repair

 

[dirtdigger]

It ran good before correct? Can you verify spark. Make sure all four carbs are getting fuel. Keep the bike in neutral and forget about the clutch for the moment. Take a close look at the wiring you had apart. Is it possible you pinched a wire in the controls on the handlebar? If all you changed was the bars and all you had apart is the wiring then the problem has to be in the wiring that you had apart.

 

[cyclebuster]

there is another option. Pre CDI kill switch was a grounding wire system. CDI system uses a circuit completion system. it could be just the wrong switch