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Installing Carburetors with Stock Air box......I see why everyone uses PODS

Wez_

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Well I have a set of OEM used insulator boots, the ones that install between the intake ports and the carburetors. The number two boot doesn't seem to install onto the intake ports all the way when the other boots are fully seated. It just seems too short or the geometry is wrong. Any tips? The softer rubber boots that install in the air box are a PIA to get that groove seated 360 degrees around them on the air box housing...And there is like only 1 cm of free room to do this all...

So I ordered a new set of insulators.........AND......


PODS!!!.....NOOOOOO!!!!!:banghead::bike::devil::yikes:

I really just want to get the engine verified and running. It will get stripped back down for paint if it runs and idles OK. I just need to figure out how to install all the OEM plastic and rubber. Pods only ran me $22 but ultimately, I want to get the stock air box working....if possibly
 
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Look at the numbers on them for position.

The pods will idle like OEM airbox if everything is right, they just won't perform as well above idle. Use the OEM jetting. The idle airflow demand is enough to not be able to saturate the stock airbox with any kind of vacuum drawdown, meaning that low in rpm the two are identical.
 
Some pods are restrictive and may lead to some rejetting or modding. I would stay with the QEM boots first to get it running. I looked at my bike, boots all look same size.
 
I have not seen a pod yet that was restrictive, that is generally the problem. CV carbs WANT restriction of a certain type..................
 
Thanks for the information. Do Pods restrict the bike 500-1000 RPM from max or are the symptoms much more severe?
 
You lose a chunk of what I call 'snappiness' in low and mid range, say suddenly whacking the throttle on, there's a loss there, slight but there. And the engine does not like to pull all the way out to max rpm too because the slides don't quite open all the way. Otherwise the engine can run pretty well but ONLY if it is in really good shape to have all cylinders working at 100%, any slide not getting that drops to cost power. The slides are activated based on the power of each cylinder to make a good depression(vacuum) across the slide bottom, not getting that in full slows the slide action down and then the engine runs rich as the slide drags in action. Why so many people run into fits jetting them up when they really essentially want to be jetting down, at least while the slide is moving. CV cabs like 'lean best horsepower' (google the term) settings, they open faster and more like that but lean best is how you burn the engine up, all engines get metered a bit too rich to prevent engine damage from that but CVs don't like it. A conundrum created by Honda wanting to hit lean emission specs and one reason why those carbs are used, second being it kills some power so wanker users cannot kill themselves as easy.

Pods also remove the approximate 50 mm. length in the boot behind carb, the DOHC likes that tuned length and tends to run harder with it in place. Most racers end up with velocity stacks around that length.
 
Wow, that's awesome information. Thanks, because i usual hear toy dismissing pods but never knew why. So Honda saved a few lives with a funky carb. I think that's pretty smart. I replaced all rubber and stock air filter, so I will eventually do some testing with both systems. For now is it safe to sync the carbs with the pods and run the stock store box for daily driver and pods for bike shows or trips to the beach, club etc....?
 
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