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Camshaft Installation....Verification

Off a tooth?

When aligned at 1.4T

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The cam notches are off

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When the notches are aligned

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The alignment pointer is off

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READ the service manual, you do not use end of cam notches; you have the #1 cam lobes of BOTH cams toward the spark plug and you line up the SPROCKET punch (or index) marks with the head surface, not the end of cam ones. They are wider spaced making them more accurate.

The NOTCHES you show in pic #3 have nothing to do with cam timing AT ALL. They are miles too wide to ever be used for timing. They are machining check marks for making the cams. Nowhere in the cam timing section do you see those notches indicated to use for cam timing.

Section 6 pgs. 20-21.
 
READ the service manual, you do not use end of cam notches; you have the #1 cam lobes of BOTH cams toward the spark plug and you line up the SPROCKET punch (or index) marks with the head surface, not the end of cam ones. They are wider spaced making them more accurate.

The NOTCHES you show in pic #3 have nothing to do with cam timing AT ALL. They are miles too wide to ever be used for timing. They are machining check marks for making the cams. Nowhere in the cam timing section do you see those notches indicated to use for cam timing.

Section 6 pgs. 20

You are absolutely correct. Wrong indicator. IDK what I was thinking...

But the sprocket indicators are doing the same thing...

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Thanks amc. Got it. Now i have done it a few times, I got a slight feel for it. I'll measure can clearances and begin a shopping list.
 
Finally found some time to work on the motor. I had to check all the previously installed springs for correct orientation. Upon removal I found almost every assembly had either he inner or outer coils spring upside down....Took me a few hours to get them all correct but you can clearly see on one end of the spring, the coils get more tightly wound than on the other end. The tighter wound end goes toward the head.....pfew...that was annoying, but I hope it was worth the effort.
 
I have been there with other work, sometimes you look over it and it all is wrong. Just rebuilt a fuel pump on car to realize I had it totally 100% in a not working condition. A face/palm DOH! moment. I at least caught it in the review before installing it, that would have been worse. Maybe even tore it up to the loss of a $100 bill.
 
I have been there with other work, sometimes you look over it and it all is wrong. Just rebuilt a fuel pump on car to realize I had it totally 100% in a not working condition. A face/palm DOH! moment. I at least caught it in the review before installing it, that would have been worse. Maybe even tore it up to the loss of a $100 bill.

Cool. Well you caught it.
 
You have to be able to when you are the only person working on 4 cars at all times and the house and other stuff for 40+ years and they never ever see a shop or anybody else at all. Not being able to see past your own BS would be a very serious problem.
 
So I have a 0 lash on one valve using a 2.75 mm shim after the valves were ground. Any idea on where to start with replacement shims? At $9 a piece on EBay, I would like to keep the guess work to a minimum. I was planning to try 2.70, 2.65 and 2.55 shims.

Does this sound reasonable?
 
Use a very thin one to guarantee airspace so you can carefully measure to get the next one right. If you simply keep buying gradually smaller and smaller you may end up buying more shims that that.

If talking about ALL of them not set yet, well, have fun with that. You may well need them all over the map, it depends on how they ground the seats. Why the valve clearances get set up with the head off engine and using low pressure springs in place of the standard ones, you can rotate a single cam by hand then and pop the shims in and out easy as spit too. I use like Moroso race car valve checking springs but you can maybe find something that works at the hardware store.
 
Use a very thin one to guarantee airspace so you can carefully measure to get the next one right. If you simply keep buying gradually smaller and smaller you may end up buying more shims that that.

If talking about ALL of them not set yet, well, have fun with that. You may well need them all over the map, it depends on how they ground the seats. Why the valve clearances get set up with the head off engine and using low pressure springs in place of the standard ones, you can rotate a single cam by hand then and pop the shims in and out easy as spit too. I use like Moroso race car valve checking springs but you can maybe find something that works at the hardware store.

Just one valve assembly has 0 lash. With the valves ground, all the other assemblies were within the recommended spec.
 
Hope you're using .005" and not .003"................great.

There often can be one or two that are off a bit.
 
Hope you're using .005" and not .003"................great.

There often can be one or two that are off a bit.

wow, not only did I interpret this wrong, but I also confused metric and standard units...wtf....im getting rusty.....

I will definitely need many new shims for correct clearances.
 
It can easily happen to anyone and even easier when you crunch numbers like that all the time. My haughtiness got in the way once when I reshimmed a zetec in a Ford Contour and almost the same engine design as these DOHC, using shims in tappets. Went to start it and it wouldn't run right. Only 2 of 4 cylinders hitting, the compression zero on the 2 not running. Yanked head after POSITIVE I had done nothing wrong and then slapped in the face when I realized I had miscalculated the metric to SAE numbers and crashed and burned exactly like the Mars satellite mission incident. The shims were too thick and just barely held the valves open.

Stupid, oh so stupid.............................I should have been quick to suspect my own work.
 
It can easily happen to anyone and even easier when you crunch numbers like that all the time. My haughtiness got in the way once when I reshimmed a zetec in a Ford Contour and almost the same engine design as these DOHC, using shims in tappets. Went to start it and it wouldn't run right. Only 2 of 4 cylinders hitting, the compression zero on the 2 not running. Yanked head after POSITIVE I had done nothing wrong and then slapped in the face when I realized I had miscalculated the metric to SAE numbers and crashed and burned exactly like the Mars satellite mission incident. The shims were too thick and just barely held the valves open.

Stupid, oh so stupid.............................I should have been quick to suspect my own work.

Man...what a bummer....thanks for sharing.

It seems that 0.127 mm is the magic number for metric clearance.
 
That'll work and .1 mm. for the lowside minimum. .15 for the high to give you a range (.004"-.006"). The engines make virtually no increased noise at all there and they go a whopping amount longer between having to set them again.
 
OK.... So I got the head gasket. It was advertised at 70mm. It does have some metal around the bore openings, but the OEM gasket feels much more reinforced with a metal layer..... What up with that?

I was able to move all my current shims around to achieve 0.04-0.06" on all valves ... man did I get lucky..

Will the can mchain tension make the clearances slightly tighter? I hope not...

I'm ready to double check all clearances and torque the head with the new gasket...
 
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