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1979 CB750 wont charge

cbtdc

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Need help bad, I have a 1979 CB 750 in Great to Excellent condition, Bike is very clean and not neglected,. Big problem is it wont charge, I already replaced the Regulator, Battery, Stator and the 2 brushes, still when the bike is running it will not increase the voltage to the battery, I also checked all plugs for corrosion or burnt terminals. Any help would be greatly appreciated. John
 
Already changed the rotor and stator and regulator along with the brushes and a new battery. All new OEM parts , and still not charging ????????
 
You already technically have tested, it's not charging.

Read the output on the three yellow wires going to regulator, they are the a/c output.

And yes bad new rotors have been possible. Especially if gotten off ebay. People sell bad ones claiming they are new all day long. It's one of the early DOHCs' greatest flaws. Mine failed on brand new bike at 3k miles back in '80. I put a total of 3 on it during its' life.

Bear in mind if connectors are taken apart enough the pins may not make contact and that has nothing to do with corrosion or burned.
 
Last edited:
You already technically have tested, it's not charging.

Read the output on the three yellow wires going to regulator, they are the a/c output.

And yes bad new rotors have been possible. Especially if gotten off ebay. People sell bad ones claiming they are new all day long.

http://www.cb750c.com/publicdocs/charging_system/genesound_charging_system.html

Go to that site (cb750c.com) and join for free and enough stuff there to choke you including the full Honda service manual.
 
Well I swapped out the rotor and stator and still cant read any voltage coming off the yellow wires from the stator. Just wondering to ck ac voltage coming from the stator, should i test with multi meter set to AC voltage, test across the 3 yellow wires or yellow wire to ground. I'm at a loss what the problem is.
 
Just read the link sent by amc49, so put my last thread on hold , I will do the routine ck's and tests and get back with how I made out.
 
Test across each yellow wire to a ground and engine running. Yes, use a/c range. You must have d/c power going into rotor and out with no shorts to ground or opens, or you will not have anything at the yellows. The rotor which is normally not magnetic becomes magnetic when running with a proper working rotor.
 
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