• Enter the March CB750 Supply gift certificate giveaway! It's easy... Click here, post something, and you're entered into the drawing!

Cylinder Head Removal....Am I readdy???

Wez_

CB750 Addict
Messages
349
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
Enfield, CT
So I got the engine removed from the frame successfully using the clymers manual...

so far so good

20170501_233759.jpg20170501_233750.jpg

Measured valve clearances....needed a metric feeler gauge....

20170506_034141.jpg

I used the book and the notch cut out of the end of the exhaust camshaft...I aligned it in each position relative to the bearing and block and each lobe was on the base circle that the manual was telling me to measure at. I ran through again just to make double check the numbers. I will make damn sure to practice this measurement if this is what keeps the engines happy...
 
The next few steps indicate that I have to align the 1.4 T mark and ensure both lobes of the Number 1 OR Number 4 cylinder are pointing towards the spark plugs. (Which exactly happens on this engine) Next step is to remove the two camshafts.


I have questions about the part where you loosen up the tension by pushing down on the chain with your finger, then with pliers, pulling up on the other piece...the pictures on the manual kinda stink....

huh.jpg

I feel if I could get some understanding on what to do when I get to this point, I should definitely be able to follow this manual and finish the next steps to remove the cylinder head top section....I need to see what's going on in cylinder number 4!!!


20170502_000804.jpg
 
The tensioner top has the metal horizontal flat tab with a rubber piece and two bolt holes in it to hold the tensioner down. You have removed that. The tallest part of the tensioner you see there, ignore the shorter part, is a piece of U-shaped channel with another smaller u-channel inside of it. You grab the smaller inner piece of channel, it is spring loaded to go down and lift it, it slides inside the bigger outside piece but springloaded to go down. Lift the inner up to loosen the chain and tighten the nut but don't strip it out, easy to do. You can't lift the lower outer channel, you are trying to lift the entire tensioner out of engine and breaks it.

You can also carefully use a bigger slot screwdriver to slide it in down between the cam sprocket with chain on it and the tensioner further down and then pry against the sprocket to then spring the tensioner back toward back of motor and then tighten like that too.
 
"You have removed that"

I have removed what? The nut and bolt or just the rubber plug off the front cam tensioner?

Also, I was able to grab the inner channel and pull it up about 1 cm, but I am not sure what nut you mentioned to tighten after....

Is it the rear cam chain tensioner nut? Or the front? It can also strip out when tightening it?

The front tensioner seems to have a plunger type mechanism in it...not sure I need to know how it works just yet.
 
I figured it out...I'll probably need help on reassembly... Between the manual and amc instructions....i got slack on both assemblies....
 
You'd best slow way down, you are posting on both tensioner assemblies at same time and mixing them up and no way will you get accurate help doing that. These engines OFTEN bend most of the valves when you are not razor sharp about where you are at and 100% of the time. Getting them apart isn't spit but going back together will tell the tale and many rookies cannot do it without bending them.

Not trying to piss on your parade at all but just sayin'.

'Also, I was able to grab the inner channel and pull it up about 1 cm, but I am not sure what nut you mentioned to tighten after....

Is it the rear cam chain tensioner nut? Or the front? It can also strip out when tightening it?'

There's a good screwup in there alone if one does not stop and do more thinking than doing. Your emphasis (!!!) on needing to see what is with cylinder #4 is misplaced if you tear up parts getting there.

Yes, all of the cam chain tensioner set bolts or nuts strip out easy as spit, the parts are below grade 5 in strength. The front bolt is for cam-to-cam tensioner and the rear nuts are for the longer crank-to-cam one.
 
http://www.cb750c.com/modules.php?name=Your_Account&redirect=viewtopic&t=301

Go there, register for free and the official Honda service manuals are in the technical documents section for free........................you need as many ways looking at that as you can get.

I've seen a lot of people screw these engines up trying to get the cams back in correctly.

I tried to upload a tensioner pic that laid out the parts but Photobucket refuses to play well today, they are modding the site and literally nothing works.
 
OK amc....ill take your advice...I registered and will stop where I'm at and read ahead and try and understand the reassembly process. I also understand you're not just being a jerk, but you're trying to prevent another pile of junk, frustrated owner and also a waste of your time. The cam removal seemed straight forward other than the tensional removal....but now I have a general idea how it works at least.

Cylinder head removal seemed smooth....everything removed OK...Only thing was the instruction in the manual seemed to describe removing 3 exhaust cam sprocket bolts.....
 
There are indeed only two bolts per sprocket, don't lose them, they are hardened above the norm and a one-off size. You loctite them in place at reassembly.

Sometimes I AM a jerk, but I try not to be and not normal for me to be that way. I hate useless wasted work and effort with a passion though.
 
There are indeed only two bolts per sprocket, don't lose them, they are hardened above the norm and a one-off size. You loctite them in place at reassembly.

Sometimes I AM a jerk, but I try not to be and not normal for me to be that way. I hate useless wasted work and effort with a passion though.

Got you bro! About me...I have my Associates Degree in Laser Electro-Optic Technology. I have been working in Research and Development of state of the art fiber optic and solid state lasers the last 10 years. So following instructions is my thing. Also, working with Aluminum resonator mirrors, keeping laser resonators particle free and handling crystals my specialty. I went to an Agricultural High School where I studied Agriculture mechanics. Lastly I have a 78 Nova almost complete frame off restoration.

I can tell you are passionate about these components and I really appreciate you telling me to chill the fk out and actually learn about what I am doing.

My next post will be something on the lines of "Cylinder Head Inspection"....as I have found some issues...

Thx again
 
Explain what pray tell a 'laser resonator' is..............I understand what each word means but the putting together of them...............hope you're getting paid what you are worth there. I went an Atomic Science symposium at UT Austin (big atomic research lab there) in around '69 as a rep from our city in Texas and that stuff was absolutely awesome to me. I was in heaven.
 
It's basically a group of opto mechanical components ( mirrors mounted in water cooled heat stinks or a group of fiber optic components that act as an amplifying source) that are aligned so that when a pumping light source is applied to these "mirrors", the photons released from an active medium can exit all in step with each other ( collimated light) And part of the light photons can be bounced back into the resonator and be amplified due to the precise alignment of forward and back reflection. These resonator or amplifier photons then pass back onto the active medium and produce even more laser photons.

It's the "engine" our a laser. Beam b delivery systems can be compared to the tyranny. Different part of the complete package. Because i have my degree in laser technology i usually handled complete systems
 
Back
Top