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New Ower 1982 CB750SC Nighthawk

Wez_

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Hello Everyone!

Time to start a new project. I scored this $200 beauty a few days ago and the passion is starting to burn deep!! The plan is to build a rat/post apocalypse, Mad Max clone all purpose custom bike! I will start by accessing what works, and what's broken. So far I need a few clutch cable, and front brake components. I was told the bike had compression and the previous owner poured mystery oil into the heads...Who knows, but I am not there yet...

Finally made a home for in my shed after reinforcing the doors/locks! Once I get the carbs cleaned, new clutch cable, clean air box, new battery and inspect the motor, I will attempt to fire this baby up. But for now, I am just getting familiar with the bike, locating a repair manual and I will be scouring this forum along with others for ideas on customizing my new toy!

Picture time...


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Since this is going to be a rat / clone...I think the final paint scheme will look something like this...Start with Flat Black, scuff, add White for the "salt" look, then tan for the "dessert/wasteland" combination look...to be determined later...just a thought...the original blue is starting to grow on me...

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Late night Progress....

The fairing will need modifications so for my documentation, I recorded how the electrical connections were made so reassembly can be smooth...

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Mock up of new handle bars..

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New bar will need an alignment hole drilled into it to allow the alignment pin to seat and properly mount the controls....[ see small alignment pin ]

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Handle bar needs slight centering, but I am extremely pleased so far with my $200 purchase...
 

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I am torn between no body panels or the stock look. Either way the rear fender piece, light and blinkers will get mounted differently. I like the stock seat as my wife will hopefully ride along. it appears I will have to modify the frame in order to run no rear body panels. The rear hump will need to be removed to allow the seat to mount flush with the frame...

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Bike in pic is a Kaw KZ1000 or KZ900, what they used in the Max movies.........Kawasakis.

Your original bar may be quite a bit closer to the pic one, most used the stock wide OEM bars on those movie bikes for leverage doing stunts. The new bar you have is actually upside down, it's a clubman bar imitating fork clipons. At that up angle likely to kill your wrists after a while, the angle is meant for you to be over them and leaning on them hard. I ran a set on my F bike way back in the day. The Nighthawk tank is too high and wide at the top to run those without hitting when turning the forks, my F only had maybe 3/8" clearance and I had to work to not hit the tank getting that. Nighthawk tank is miles wider than the F one at front, they swap at the back.

Remove the alignment pin and then put the switches/etc. wherever you want, pretty hard to get that hole in the correct place the first time and you don't need it at all and much more latitude in setting controls then. The pins are only for quick assembly of many bikes to still have the angles all the same when new bike first fully assembled.

Yours and do what you will.
 
Bike in pic is a Kaw KZ1000 or KZ900, what they used in the Max movies.........Kawasakis.

Your original bar may be quite a bit closer to the pic one, most used the stock wide OEM bars on those movie bikes for leverage doing stunts. The new bar you have is actually upside down, it's a clubman bar imitating fork clipons. At that up angle likely to kill your wrists after a while, the angle is meant for you to be over them and leaning on them hard.

Remove the alignment pin and then put the switches/etc. wherever you want, pretty hard to get that hole in the correct place the first time and you don't need it at all and much more latitude in setting controls then. The pins are only for quick assembly of many bikes to still have the angles all the same when new bike first fully assembled.

Yours and do what you will.

Thanks for the heads up....really appreciated....And yes, the bar is installed upside down. The seller threw it in for $10 and he explained exactly what you said, and I said, "lets try it upside down"....I'll use it for now and see how it feels ultimately. Looks cool at least, but if my wrists end up suffering, then they will get replaced. The stock bar is just a little too "Harley like" for me....


So what about 18 X 2.5 Rims for the rear? Will such a rear rim work or would it require spacers or new rear swing arm? I found the rims I want but need to understand the implications of such a change.

Here's the link.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/322431201089?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
Rat on!
I like the Road Warrior tribute theme.
So what if it's a Honda.
Looks like you have your work cut out gettig it going.
 
Take a pic from the SIDE end on, a top view there is worthless as it is HIGHLY misleading.........pic #3 in post #2............

..........the roadbike has slight downward angle if anything and the clubmans will be uplifted, you can see it in the pic if you look close. Even with them out of center and way up you are still hitting the tank with the throttle cables, and just try to open that master cylinder cap. Brake fluid possibly everywhere. I used to have a Suzuki that had those on upside down, it was undriveable after 30 minutes. When right side up like intended the bars point way down like rocket boosters on a Bomarc cruise missile. You actually lean on them with the forward half of your body, then they are wonderful, but again, way less leverage. I had to remove them for dragracing as they don't let you work the bar enough to keep the bike straight at 10 grand leaves off the line. The bike being all over the place at that time, you gotta get it straight QUICK or the run is a waste of time.

That exact same swingarm will take an OEM 18x2.5 wheel (standard size) like CB900F uses but you may just hit if using the same 140 size tire, IIRC a 130 WILL fit in there though depending on its' profile, I used to have one on my F.
 
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Take a pic from the SIDE end on, a top view there is worthless as it is HIGHLY misleading.........pic #3 in post #2............

..........the roadbike has slight downward angle if anything and the clubmans will be uplifted, you can see it in the pic if you look close. Even with them out of center and way up you are still hitting the tank with the throttle cables, and just try to open that master cylinder cap. Brake fluid possibly everywhere. I used to have a Suzuki that had those on upside down, it was undriveable after 30 minutes. When right side up like intended the bars point way down like rocket boosters on a Bomarc cruise missile. You actually lean on them with the forward half of your body, then they are wonderful, but again, way less leverage. I had to remove them for dragracing as they don't let you work the bar enough to keep the bike straight at 10 grand leaves off the line. The bike being all over the place at that time, you gotta get it straight QUICK or the run is a waste of time.

That exact same swingarm will take an OEM 18x2.5 wheel (standard size) like CB900F uses but you may just hit if using the same 140 size tire, IIRC a 130 WILL fit in there though depending on its' profile, I used to have one on my F.

This is all just mock up. Can you explain the problem with the Suzuki and the throttle cables hitting the tank?

What made the Suzuki undriveable after 30 minutes??

The bars clear even the stock wide tank when fully rotated both ways....

Perhaps I can get shorter cables or a different bar if this is "impossible"...

Again, this is preliminary at the moment. I just want to start visualizing, and get the fuel delivery, top end and electrical system cleaned up like a whistle.

I think eventually I should be able to sort something out once I understand there problems that you can see already......That I cannot, because I am inexperienced....with some proper patience and good workmanship, I will overcome these obstacles....

I was able to rotate the master cylinder more upright to prevent that fluid leak you noticed also.....I was really surprised you noticed that in my "mock up" pictures....

THANKS!!!

shows me you really know your stuff!

The more upright reservoirs did effect the throttle position
 
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Rat on!
I like the Road Warrior tribute theme.
So what if it's a Honda.
Looks like you have your work cut out gettig it going.

Thanks for the support !! :)

Yea...I'm over it not being a Kz1000....i found one for 600$ but the guys at the office suggested it was more of a straight line bike....and this nighthawk is starting to grow on me.

I plan to modify and keep the rear fender....just "modernize/enhance it's unique retro style....
 
Wrist angle like I said before made the Suzuki undriveable. I removed the bar after that first ride, absolutely couldn't stand it like that.

I meant YOUR throttle cables hitting, why you have the bar in there lopsided way to the right. The lower cable tubes are not lined up correctly to wear or break the cables way early but lining them up makes it more likely to hit tank at full turn too. Bar clearing isn't squat if it looks like crap as finally set. Need different bar, cable length will do nothing there.

Man I locate assemblies like that to within .060" in all directions I desire. I know how much room I have and can get if I need more by 'butchering' parts that later look untouched. I built and worked on up to 200 mph race cars, intelligent modification is the word of the day, do something stupid there and people can die over it. BTDT.

I used K&N Freddie Spencer Superbike bars on both my Fs back in the day but that bar may not be sold any longer. The clubman mounted correctly got the most comments, guys thought they made the bike look so damn cool.
 
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You really should be running the compression on the motor, you may have much bigger problems. The owners NEVER set the valves because they need shims to do so and they burn at the drop of a hat due to that. Like most guys that come on here, they find the clearances all closed up and the bike runs like pure crap if at all. That then pushes the male testosterone level up to where the owner blames the carbs and they often ARE a problem, being complicated enough that many have to clean them 3-4 times to get them to work right. Many give up and let the bike sit, and how you find so many of them for years.

Being told it 'has compression'.....................if only you knew how many times I've heard that.

If they run ethanol fuel in your local area then the pilot/primary system on the carbs is likely totally messed up.
 
Wrist angle like I said before made the Suzuki undriveable.

I meant YOUR throttle cables hitting, why you have the bar in there lopsided way to the right. The lower cable tubes are not lined up correctly to wear or break the cables way early but lining them up makes it more likely to hit tank at full turn too. Bar clearing isn't squat if it looks like crap as finally set. Need different bar, cable length will do nothing there.

trying to understand....something about the throttle cables hitting the tank...and something about the cable tubes not lined up correctly....sorry but I'm just not understanding what you are saying. Maybe be less specific and more general. The cables wont operate when hitting the tank and turning???....I just pulled some slack out the cables and tried to route them naturally and plan on zip tying them in the proper location when done....At the very least I'm expecting to be able to rev the engine if I can get it to start....I feel like you are adamant that these bars MUST NOT work....idk....

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Started bagging and tagging.....limited space....but "I'M THE NIIIGHHHT RIIIDDDERRR"......!!

Funny, because most of the work so far has been done between 10 PM and 4 AM. This is why most pictures are fuzzy and poor because I am using a drop light to add lighting for pictures.

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Peeked inside the heads...It looks like I have my work cut out for me.
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So excited :) :) When this baby fires up......I'm gonna have that twisted look in my eyes...

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Removed the plugs and said hello to my little friends...

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Found a decent book at the library...it covered a lot of material including purchasing a first bike, gear, riding, etc....My Chilton Repair Service Manual is coming in the mail. This one will supplement for now
 
Good reading material...even though its not specific, its enough to hold me over until my service manual arrives

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I find these stock parts somewhat ugly. I hope to incorporate tasteful mods that compliment this bike....But at $200 invested...This project could go either way...

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I like the way the bike is starting to look with the stock components. The rear lighting system doesn't look sleek enough IMHO... Maybe I can get some aftermarket lights and blend them into the fender...

This baking soda blaster from HF really cleans things up nicely. I think I will go get a few more bags, remove the fairing and blast the whole bike after cleaning the grime...
 
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The last bowl was stuck, I finally freed the linkage up and oiled the rotating components before the cleaning commences...Once I get the bike cleaned up The top end will get some attention...Those valves looked crummy

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