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Looking for help on a clutch issue

dstahnke

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Greetings ya'll,

I've read through the majority of threads looking for my particular issue. I'm restoring a 1975 CB750k5 and I currently have an issue with the clutch. Here's what it's doing:

With the bike in gear and the clutch engaged there is no slipping = engine and gearbox connected, yay!

With the lever pulled in and clutch disengaged, there is a ton of drag trying to push the bike and then it seems to "break free" and then its easy to roll just as if it's in neutral!

I've had the clutch apart, measured thickness of plates, triple checked all components made sure they are put back correctly according to the Haynes manual and other online sources. I've read about groves in clutch hub today but would have to completely disassemble to check if that was the case for my bike. EXCEPT: In the manual it stated that the first plate to insert into the hub is a friction plate that is slightly smaller in diameter than the other friction plates. All my plates are the same size.

I'm wondering, since the bike hasn't been run in 20 years if that, when I do get it running and the clutch is spinning, if it will be less likely to bind up.


Any input on the situation would be greatly appreciated.

Dave
 
Why don't you just adjust the cable to get more clutch release at the handle?

One stuck together for a long time may take active engine running to free it up but it should do it regardless of how long it sat unless rusted together from water in motor.
 
Its normal to have some clutch drag when pulling in the clutch with it in gear and trying to push the bike. If you have some notches wore in the basket then the problem feels worse. You need to get it running and ride it for a bit to accurately see if you have an issue.
 
Thanks gents!

I got the bike running for the first time in 20 years. I had to do another clutch adjustment after the first test ride. The problem has completely gone away and the clutch is working fantastically. I had the feeling that it just needed to be ran for a bit. Thanks again.
 
Clutch k0 k1 k2 ...

Hello,
I write from Switzerland (EUROPE ) not city in USA.
I bought a K0 dismantled and a K0 never touched for more than 40 years (it was in an old barn).
I noticed that both have problems with the clutch.
So, I look at the shop manual original, Clymer, Haynes, The parts list, you tube, in the Forums.
Now, all of these people explain that initially it takes pressure plate (aluminum) then the synthetic disc, then metal disc.
Looking at my experience with many other motorcycle brands, looking Parts list, logic dictates that nothing turns on the aluminum flange because immediately deteriorate, so it should be placed the metal plate as the first.
But apparently it is not so, from what I see ... Only in the Parts List is correct with my thought, but does not match in quantity.
Now I ask any of you; what is the right and why?

I we other questions about rebuild engine, but coming after, step by step, thank you.
CLUTCH 2B.jpg
 
Augusto,

I think the other sources are correct in that it should start and end with a friction plate. My logic thinks that if you had the steel plate against the aluminum pressure plate your clutch wouldn't engage the engine as well and hence slip. Mine definitely has the friction plate first and works great.

Cheers,
Dave
 
The later DOHC is the same way, the clutch pack both starts and ends with a fiber plate rather than steel. You'd think the aluminum wears faster than the steel but it doesn't matter as the clutch does not free up until ALL surfaces regardless of material have opened up enough to allow slip of ALL discs.
 
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