78 cb750f pods

[lukers]

I would like to put pods on my bike. I currently have stock main jets on the carbs (115) what size main jet should I get?
I also have (38) slow jet size. And, should I get a shim for the slide needle? If yes, than what size shim?

Thanks.

 

[dirtdigger]

There is no set jet size for pods too many things affect jetting. yes get shims, in various thicknesses. Do a search on the sight, this subject has been beat to death and then beat again. And maybe beat a third time.

 

[amc49]

Try to leave the needles alone, if the motor has good draw on the carbs you may well not need to screw with them. I don't. The pilots are fine, don't mess with them. Start at 10 higher main and go from there, may not even handle that if you are running stock exhaust. The condition of your engine seal as in valves and rings determine a whole lot of what you have to do, way too many people just assume a 35+ year old engine is still sealing well and big mistake #1. Look at your compression; you are already down a bit if the numbers are right. Should be able to get 150+ with a good sealed engine.

Like said above , a whole host of variables there yet everybody wants to know EXACTLY what numbers to run. Like it could ever happen..............one guys' hot rod is the next guy's dog.............

Header CAN make a big difference but not necessarily. There are a whole lot of 'headers' out there but the number of them that really work well, you can count 'em on one hand. I personally think pods with no header are an utter waste of time, you always mod exhaust first, it leads to an intake that then can flow more if you mod it THEN. If intake can't then modding it to do so wasted time. The old treat the entire thing as a unified system thing, you don't think of intake or exhaust as separate, one affects the other.

 

[Dave]

treat the entire thing as a unified system

I spend most of my times these days tweaking my "Hot Rod", AKA Gaming, PC for max performance instead of out in the garage porting heads or hand finishing valves and it strikes how this one sentence of yours stays relevant.

So many people think they can just buy expensive PC parts with fancy names and just "plug n play" their way to high performance. I read all the complaints from these same people about how game X sucks because it runs like crap on their overly expensive system.

Meanwhile, game X almost always runs great on My PC that cost me half as much money but, infinitely more time researching all the different technologies and hardware specs to make sure the "entire thing" works well together.

 

[amc49]

If I could emphasize one other thing it would be that you ALWAYS start with a rock solid engine, so many try to hi-perf tune a dog motor into that by using performance parts. It was a mistake in the '70s and still one today but oh so many still don't get that. The probably #1 reason why pod installs have such varied and usually utter crap results. Bad running stock engines run worse when you try to hi-perf them, hi-perf requires a much sharper tune. So, self-defeating effort there and an oxymoron to boot.

Theses bikes all well over 30 years old and it continually amazes me how many want to screw with them without even having any firm idea of the OEM motor condition. It's like they change the oil and rebuild carbs (halfway usually) and expect it to run up to 9000 rpm instantly and start instantly under all conditions. If not then it needs pods or other. Kinda silly.

There's probably a good statement to be made about the quality of our public school systems today but I'd best leave that alone.............