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Cam chains, your opinions?

broncomatt

2-1975 honda cb750 four's
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I'm getting ready to put my 75 cb750 engine back together and I'm down to deciding on a cam chain.
I had wanted to use a non endless link chain with a rivet link so I didn't have to separate the tranny (lower half).
But cb750supply is out of them and I don't see any on ebay so I thought I would ask what everyone else likes to use?
Is there another place that sells those chains? Is it that much better not having a link? I mean our drive chains use a removable link and take tons of abuse. I haven't ever seen any on production car engines but that doesn't mean It wouldn't be ok on a bike engine.
On the flip side if its not too hard to split the case just enough to slip the cam chain on then I guess I will have to do that.
Tell me your opinions and maybe other places that may sell other chains.
 
Hey thanks for the links, I was wondering what else I could do to sup up the engine some with out going all out. Didnt even know there were cams out here with that grind.
So as an example I could buy there heavy duty chain and press out a link so I dont seporate the lower end? If so thats what I realy wanted to hear!
How much better is the manual chain adjuster from the stock one. My motor is all stock (maybe someday I will do the cam) but I like the idea of the manual adjuster?
 
I also see the non endless chain is avalable on Vintage's site, I guess I dont need the tool with that removable pin?
 
I wouldn't separate an endless chain and use a rivet link, but perhaps that's ok to do, I just don't know. It might be hard to find the right link anyway. Vintage CB750 has a heavy duty non-endless cam chain and extra links if you need them. You'll need the tool for all the non-endless chains to break the chain and also rivet the new link.

I don't have any experience with the manual tensioner, but apparently they are beneficial for performance and race engines to stop the adjuster from backing out when the throttle is closed quickly at high rpm. I would think that unless you're racing or really ripping on your bike, the stock adjuster will be fine. :twocents:
 
Thanks for the info, I saw the ones on the vintage site but didnt know if I still needed the tool or not. Knowing this I dont need to buy the chain tool, just the non endless link chain with extra links if needed.
 
Ok, now i'm confused. I'm going to cut off my old chain with a die grinder. I am looking at buying this chain from vintage.

Tsubaki BS05MH x 94 Heavy Duty Type Cam Chain - OEM Ref. # 14401-286-003 - Non Endless type (Joiner Link Included - Pitch .3061" (7.774mm) The latest high strength heavy duty cam chain from Tsubaki for Honda CB750's.

Made in Japan

Fits: Honda CB750K (1969-78),
CB750F (1975-78) Supersport,
CB750A (1976-78) Hondamatic
Part #: 52-5010

It doesnt seem I would need the chain tool to install this chain.
 
Yeah you won't need the tool to break your old chain if you cut it, but you'll need it to rivet the link on the new chain. The tool is a breaker and riveter, but you'll only need it for the rivet function. Good luck! Let us know how it goes.
 
I will never use a non endless chain in a 750. Some use them and have no trouble but the cam chain is a weak link in the 750. If the chain breaks you will bend valves break guides possibly break pistons and whatever else gets hurt with the parts flying around in the bottom end. If you plan on keeping it stock then its up to you but if you put a cam with springs in it all bets are off. As far as the manual tensioner its not absolutely needed in a 750. The stock one works good as when you tighten the lock bolt when you adjust the chain it cant back off because of the jam bolt. They are used mostly on bikes that are raced because then you can adjust the chain so there is no excessive pressure on the chain once the motor is up to operating temperature. If your stock one is free and working then I would use it as it works well. If you have low miles on the motor and didn't do anything to the bottom end I would leave the chain alone but if you have a lot of miles on the motor and are doing a top end then I would have split the cases and had a look at the bottom end anyway.
 
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