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Weird wiring issue at solenoid

Jakelgto

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White hall md
so I finally got my 77 running on a new set of carbs, took it out for a few rides, came back, fixed my makeshift temporary seat pan, went to turn the key and had no power, I jiggled the two positive wires on the starter solenoid and got electric again, shut the bike off again, turned it on and lost it again. This time no power after messing with the solenoid. Unplugged the solenoid wire and saw a drop of water trapped under the rubber. Blew it out plugged it in and hit the starter and heard a short. But now I can't find any issues whatsoever. I have continuity everywhere but none of my electric is working at all.
 
Unfortunately the only good way to solve wiring issues is to use a multimeter and test all of the paths for continuity
and power. To test the solenoid you can disconnect it from the system and simply apply 12V directly from the battery
and if it clicks it should be good. Otherwise it's fried and you need another one. Good luck, electrical issues are very frustrating,
especially if the wiring harness is old.
 
New issue: I have no electric, no lights, no spark on my 77 cb750k. I have continuity through the entire bike, checked every wire before and after all the connections. My question is could a bad rectifier/regulator cause me to lose power? I was working on the turn signal flasher when it happened so I'm thinking maybe it was shorted out in the process.
 
Not likely, But a bad diode in the rectifier could drain the battery dead just from setting, Check 15amp. main fuse, Remove the multiple wires at rt. solenoid nut and post and clean the wire terminals up with fine sandpaper and reinstall the nut and tighten. Electrical on these and others can drive Ya crazy sometimes it,s just as simple as a bad ground. Good luck
 
Starter solenoid is brand new, Terminals are clean, are there any other grounds other than that and the main frame ground? And I checked the main fuse, actually switched it out to an inline 15a blade fuse
 
There are a few secondary grounds such as the stator field coil but would not knock out Your whole system, Do as Daren suggested with a volt meter check for voltage at the main fuse forward I do not know where Your key switch is at but with a wiring diagram check for voltage there in and out I,ve heard of a few people having problems at that point.
 
I've been using a test light and have continuity literally everywhere. I spent two full days just testing wires and I've tested every wire for continuity. So it more or less has to be a bad part or a loose gto if that doesn't have enough voltage
 
Sanded the solenoid ground and nuts just to be sure, still no juice, also checked the ignition, power going in on the red wire and out on the black wire with the key on so that's good too. I'm beginning to run out of ideas. Weirdest part is that I was working back by the rear turn signals when it happened, it has the original reg and rect on it so I ordered a new solid state combo to change it anyways so I'll see if that does anything
 
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