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Removing Plastics 1992 CB750

mdsjay

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Hello everyone. I'm new to this forum and to CB750s. I picked up a 1992 CB750 two days ago that is running, has a title, and has inspection done. Currently I'm trying to clean it up and do maintenance that the last two owners obviously did not care about. I have a couple different things I'm working on, but at the moment I want to do something with plastics on the exterior of the bike. It looks like the side panels have taken a beating and I like the idea of taking them off which is pretty easy. What I've ran into though is taking of the rear plastics. Since the same bolts that hold the plastics in also holds the shocks in, I thought it would be a good idea to do some research before I started just taking off pieces. Since this is my first bike and I don't have any experience with working on bikes but lots of experience breaking things I didn't do research on, I figured I should ask y'all first.

Thank you
Jay

IMG_20140820_100411_035.jpg
I just attached the photo to put a picture to a post and to also display what panels I'm talking about.
 
I don't see a center stand on your bike. If it has one I would use it and put a block of wood under the rear wheel so that when you pull the bolt nothing goes flying. If no stand I would block it up. Better that way than using the side stand and having the shock punch up through the plastics when the bolt comes out. Having said all that I am guessing that the shock will stay in place when the bolt is removed.
 
I just pulled the plastic rear piece off of my 1992. Mine has the Honda backrest installed so yours may be different if it does not have the backrest. I undid the bolts that hold the bracket to the shocks and pulled it off. Of course after removing the bolts under the seat. Took all of 5 minutes and did not interfere with the shocks. Suspension stayed in place. You should not have a problem.
 
I just pulled the plastic rear piece off of my 1992. Mine has the Honda backrest installed so yours may be different if it does not have the backrest. I undid the bolts that hold the bracket to the shocks and pulled it off. Of course after removing the bolts under the seat. Took all of 5 minutes and did not interfere with the shocks. Suspension stayed in place. You should not have a problem.

Yeah in the 3 years I had the bike I took the plastics off a bunch of times finding that it wasn't complicated. I actually did a fair share of the work. Here' a picture of it when I still had it. I actually sold it a couple months ago since I wasn't riding it anymore. I got a '97 CBR F3 that I preferred to drive ('cause go fast you know?).

0521161516b.jpg

Hard to believe it's the same bike haha. Replaced the headlight, handlebars, exhaust, and all fairings. New battery, "new" salvaged starter (since mine shit out on me right when I was trying to sell it), had the carbs cleaned, and fork seals replaced. It was starting to just have a bunch of small problems all of the time and I really couldn't validate driving it over the CBR. It just handles so much worse haha. The clutch I think was on it's last leg as well and that was scarying me. I had to run OEM Honda oil in it for the damn thing not to slip. Not to mention the head gasket was leaking oil as well. Not a lot but enough to make the engine oily all of the time.
 
Resr plastics

Yeah in the 3 years I had the bike I took the plastics off a bunch of times finding that it wasn't complicated. I actually did a fair share of the work. Here' a picture of it when I still had it. I actually sold it a couple months ago since I wasn't riding it anymore. I got a '97 CBR F3 that I preferred to drive ('cause go fast you know?).

View attachment 7912

Hard to believe it's the same bike haha. Replaced the headlight, handlebars, exhaust, and all fairings. New battery, "new" salvaged starter (since mine shit out on me right when I was trying to sell it), had the carbs cleaned, and fork seals replaced. It was starting to just have a bunch of small problems all of the time and I really couldn't validate driving it over the CBR. It just handles so much worse haha. The clutch I think was on it's last leg as well and that was scarying me. I had to run OEM Honda oil in it for the damn thing not to slip. Not to mention the head gasket was leaking oil as well. Not a lot but enough to make the engine oily all of the time.
Sorry you had so many problems with the bike. They are know for their reliability. Good luck with the CBR. Solid ride
 
FYI, if running car oils the friction modifiers they use that replace the zinc (dropped due to EPA regulation) can cause either clutch or starter clutch slipping, they are sometimes TOO slippery. The early DOHCs have fits with starter clutches using car oils of some types.

If problems there you need a JASO spec oil with zinc that is motorcycle specific oil. You'll likely pay much more for it.
 
FYI, if running car oils the friction modifiers they use that replace the zinc (dropped due to EPA regulation) can cause either clutch or starter clutch slipping, they are sometimes TOO slippery. The early DOHCs have fits with starter clutches using car oils of some types.

If problems there you need a JASO spec oil with zinc that is motorcycle specific oil. You'll likely pay much more for it.

When I was looking for reasons for clutch slipping I found some posts talking about car oil doing that. I was using motorcycle oil from auto parts stores (can't remember the exact brand) but after moving to the normal Honda oil it didn't slip anymore and shifted much smoother. The reason I had concerns was the non-Honda oil was fine and then suddenly my clutch start to slip under heavy throttle (high torque while in power bands of course). Everyone had their opinions on Rotella and synthetic and car oil but putting oil in it that it was originally designed with seemed pretty fool-proof so I just went with that. I run OEM Honda oil in my CBR now as well and it's fine so I don't feel much need to go to anything else.
 
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