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  1. #1
    CB750 Member Ford40's Avatar
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    Stuck oil filter bolt and oil drain plug

    I just recently purchased a 1976 CB750K as my first motorcycle and was trying to perform a simple oil change (or so I thought), but I cant seem to remove the bolt that holds the filter on or the oil drain plug on the bottom of the engine. Any help is greatly appreciated?

    ETA-Got the drain plug out but the oil filter bolt is still seized and the head is starting to get rounded
    Last edited by Ford40; 10-28-2013 at 06:38 PM.

  2. #2
    CB750 Addict Vicman's Avatar
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    6pt socket and a long breaker bar with nice even pressure is the best ticket out there. That head is pretty soft so make sure you have a 6pt.

  3. #3
    CB750 Member Ford40's Avatar
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    Got the oil filter bolt out after buying an adapter to fit the 12mm socket to my breaker bar but I found a lot of fine metal probably about the size of sugar grains in the bottom of the filter housing. Does anybody know what this could be from? I'm also attaching pictures of some kind of finned oil cooler that was between the oil filter housing and the engine. If somebody could identify it I'd appreciate it.

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  4. #4
    Moderator dirtdigger's Avatar
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    some metal particles are normal because the oil is filtered from the outside then clean goes out the center. Metal in the oil is normal because the transmission and clutch all share the same oil as the motor.

  5. #5
    Competent CB750 owner AlabamaCB750's Avatar
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    I have also gone through the same dilemma with the oil filter housing bolt and the engine oil pan drain plug. It appears the previous owner was a little overzealous when it came to tightening bolts. I finally worked the oil pan drain bolt loose with some patience, but even with a 6 point socket I severely damaged the oil filter cover's bolt head. So much so that I had to replace it. I'm sure someone has posted this before, but for those who are wondering, the oil drain bolts torque values are as follows...
    Oil tank drain plug - 24 ft lbs
    Crankcase drain plug - 24 ft lbs
    Oil filter housing bolt - 20 ft lbs
    Oil pan bolts - 7 to 10 ft lbs
    Hope this helps someone in the future. Also, a little anti-seize on the threads of the bolts helps a lot the next time you remove them.
    I bought an adapter kit that lets you use a spin on oil filter instead if the internal filter that came stock. It makes it easier to change the filter, and I suspect the larger filter does a better job of filtering the oil. The only drawback is you lose the cool finned filter cover when you use this option. You can even buy chromed oil filters for a good look. I use the one from K&N.
    Last edited by AlabamaCB750; 01-17-2017 at 12:57 AM. Reason: Content

  6. #6
    CB750 Guru amc49's Avatar
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    The oil filter housing bolt tends to overtighten with time even if installed at the correct torque, it's just a thing with that bolt, the DOHCs do the same thing. Use same torque wrench to loosen it and the torque has gone up. Plating corrosion right under the flange head adds to it.

    Similar to what angle seat (no steel gasket) spark plugs do on cars.

    '...a LOT of fine metal...'

    Caps are mine. I myself do not consider 'a lot' to be normal, flecks here an there are OK but ANY accumulation is not in my book. Highly subject to personal viewpoint though. Normal particles will be flakes rather than shavings, which have a different shape.

    The J.C. Whitney type of filter spacer is probably just a gimmick cooling add-on.

  7. #7
    Moderator dirtdigger's Avatar
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    This is a very old post but I will respond to the finned spacer. It is a factory "oil cooler" spacer from the F2 motor.

  8. #8
    CB750 Guru amc49's Avatar
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    Well, that's interesting.............learn something new everyday..........Does the extra thickness require a one-off length oil filter bolt?

  9. #9
    Moderator dirtdigger's Avatar
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    Yes, Honda has a long and a short oil filter bolt.

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