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If you have rechecked all valves to around .005" or so then the best thing to do is take it out and run it to get engine to realize it is back running again and then ride it hard for a bit. Put some...

Now there is a good name for that part..........the horseshoe.

He still posts here but 99% 750 SOHC stuff. He likely dropped off there for no response. If you PM him or wait until he pops up in the SOHC section I'm sure he'd tell you.

https://www.hepco-becker.de/en/center-stand-for-honda-xrv-750-africa-twin-from-1993.html

Similar use to that but you will not have the grille to hook lower spring to, use the pin on stand leg...

Carbs need to be synced to idle smoothly and pull off idle correctly.

A leakdown test is a waste of time, they are only for drag racing up to 10% leak, with compression you have you are likely...

Most of those parts can be got at any well equipped hardware store. The long bolt might make you look a little longer. The #28 bushing is the only one and you could likely make one up using hardware...

That's OK for a used engine. 170 is the service manual number for brand new.

The air bubbles rise in the lines to never fully bleed to 100% liquid only.

https://www.motorcycleproject.com/dohc/dohcpage.html

Expensive and probably the best in the world.

My days of doing that type work are done although I can easily do it. I won't touch a carb...

I've made those before myself as needed.

Engine condition figures in big there, people never question it but the biggest determiner of quick cold starting there is.

You're NOT supposed to smell raw fuel unless going way too far trying...

Wrong site..........try this, he posts there as Fitz but not much as of late.............also known as 'fasterspider'

Tell him amc49 sent you................
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I understand, having worked/welded(butchered really but it worked) on car plastics of several types. Those sidecovers may be ABS.........

Pegs for those that want them..............
...

You generally never need to mess with timing on one. It does have a plate that can be moved to do it.

Caliper is likely corrosion sticking outboard of piston like most of them do. Caliper comes...

You wouldn't say that in Texas where the plastic can biodegrade into dust.

There are no points in it. I have never seen one ever that would start cold with choke dead off showing likely running rich and what the clogged carbs usually do.

You will need a lot more than just a hole in the case there and no room for it in a DOHC, somebody was talking about things they have no idea of whatsoever.

There is no denying that the OEM airbox is utter crap to have to work with. But run pods long enough to get used to them and then come back to the OEM box and then you easily pick up on the low/mid...

Only IF the exhaust is one that works, many don't and then that is a mistake. As well, it both denies that CVs auto self adjust jetting on their own to an extent and that they work slides best...

Not going to find much on this site on them, I don't think I saw 5 of those since 1984. The exhaust came only 4/2 and that exhaust exit says custom for sure. I myself would never buy a bike that...

'I shouldn't assume it was done right when I bought it should I?'

NEVER. But then I can find errors in OEM engines. I am never satisfied. It's part of my OCD thing.

Count plates and make sure all are there, there is no reason for the lever to be that hard at all. You can screw up on the spacers between inner hub and outer basket too.

When all is said and done you will spend a lot of time just getting the bike to run as well as it did before using the OEM airbox. And very likely the slides will not be opening fully at 100% wide...

A small mirror on a stick may make your day there.

That tells you the wheel is wildly crooked in the arm. Don't rely on your eyes there. The arm at the axle slot has marks stamped in the outside face, you line up both adjusters (they are marked too)...